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M clutch issues...again

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Dave from MN

05-17-2002 08:16:58




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Hi all. Long time no see. It was a weird winter and I am back working on my M trying to get the clutch all sorted. Since we last talked I have put in a new clutch disc, throwout bearing, pressure plate, and release fork. The problem...it still doesn't release. If I start the tractor and try to put it in gear, it just grinds. :( Could low gear oil level be a problem? The flywheel doesn't look like it could be warped but I guess that's a possibility??? Thanks in advance.

Confused and Bewildered,
Dave

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Duner Wi

05-17-2002 19:36:43




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 Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to Dave from MN, 05-17-2002 08:16:58  
I had a 3 fingered clutch do what you describe once. I had just installed it and it would not release after a few minutes. What happened was one of the three finger pivot point bolts had pulled thru the nut and one side oof the pressure plate would not release. Might be possible the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate if it has sat for a time after you installed it.



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Haas

05-17-2002 16:55:48




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 Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to Dave from MN, 05-17-2002 08:16:58  
You don't mention the pilot bearing and as best I read, neither did anyone else. Did you replace it?? Did you lube it?? On the M, there is a way to grease the pilot bearing. The flywheel has a recess in it with a zerk fitting. You access it by turning the engine until the zerk is at the hole in the bottom of the clutch housing just under the fly wheel. May be hard to find, as often the recess is full of dirt and grease. If you did not change the pilot bearing and did not lube it, it could well be that the pilot bearing has enough friction to keep the drive shaft and the gears turning. On the M, if you have the Lift all in there, it should provide enough drag to stop the gears fairly quickly. If you lube the pilot bearing through the zerk, only give it a couple of strokes, as you don't want to get grease on the clutch facing.

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Charlie

05-17-2002 14:21:39




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 Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to Dave from MN, 05-17-2002 08:16:58  
I mention this because I screwed up once and had it happen to me - I had my clutch plate get wrarped one time after I changed the rear crank shaft seal and tried to reinstall the engine with the clutch still in the tractor. The tractor acted the same way you are describing now. You will have to take the clutch back out to check but if you do, place a straight edge across it the best you can (center gets in the way). If it doesn't touch the straight edge all the way across its wrarped. The fix is a replacement.

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the tractor vet

05-17-2002 08:53:52




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 Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to Dave from MN, 05-17-2002 08:16:58  
(1 ) you did not buy chance put the disc in back wards ? (2 ) I always have the flywheel resurfaced and have the step cut to spec. (3) no low oil level will not affect the clutch and when the pedal is depressed the tranmission will turn for a littel while as there is not clutch brake to stop it but the trans will stop or slow down . If you remove the return spring and push the clutch pedal down till you feel it hit the fingers then set your 7/8ths to 1 inch free travel then replace the return spring you should be good to go , but since i am not there i can not be sure and yes the clutches are pre set on all that i use and trying to change finger hight is not a wise idea but can be done. Have a freind help ya and you look up in the toqure tube with a lite and see what is going on when thew pedal is pushed . If you are still having problems give me a call on the land line this evening a 330-337-8113. TV.

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Dave from MN

05-17-2002 10:04:17




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 Re: Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to the tractor vet, 05-17-2002 08:53:52  
Ok, I checked the free play and I'm at 7/8" and still no luck. I depressed the pedal and tried to spin the shaft by hand. It spins (tough to spin) but I can hear it rub still. If I do have to remove the flywheel can I do it without splitting the tractor? Also how much does it normally cost to resurface a flywheel. Is there anything else that could be wrong?

Thanks,
Dave



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the tractor vet

05-17-2002 10:56:34




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 Re: Re: Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to Dave from MN, 05-17-2002 10:04:17  
You will have to split the tractor to remove the flywheel but i always split i prefer to work on my feet rather then on my back . And the cost is somewhere around 25 to 50 buck depending on the shop , it should be ground rather then being turned on a lathe a lathe will not cut the had spots . Did you take out the shipping bolts?there should be three bolts that hold the PP down for shipping.



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Dave from MN

05-17-2002 11:01:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to the tractor vet, 05-17-2002 10:56:34  
Those bolts should be on the "finger side" right? There were none when I received it. I went out to get it from a local implemnet dealer (not sure if that make any difference). Anyway, if the bolts were still in it it would release but not grab right? My problem is the opposite.



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ScottyNY

05-17-2002 08:29:06




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 Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to Dave from MN, 05-17-2002 08:16:58  
Dave, I just helped someone with the same problem. I'm assuming you having no luck in adjusting the free throw correctly, because you can't get any resistance from the clutch. If that's the case, the place to look is at the clutch cover and pressure plate. I shudder to suggest it, but you'll probably have to go back up inside and drop the whole rig again. Either the pressure plate is set too far ahead of the cover (meaning you can push on the opedal and get resistance but the clutch doesn't disengage),or (more likely and easier to adjust) the fingers are set too far forward, so that the throwout bearing never reaches them. If the former, you'll need to adjust the pressure plate clearance and then the fingers. If the latter, just the fingers. I'm at the office (read "no manuals here"), but will check in tonight. If no one else has come up with the correct settings for you, I'll look them up. What year is your M? Apologies for the long windedness. Scotty

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Dave

05-17-2002 08:34:34




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 Re: Re: M clutch issues...again in reply to ScottyNY, 05-17-2002 08:29:06  
Doesn't all that stuff come adjusted when the clutch gets rebuilt? Also, I think my problem is the first you spoke of. I get pedal resistance but the clutch just won't disengage. Is there any chacne that if the gear oil was way low (say 2 gallons versus the needed 13) that the lack of fluid drag would be enough to let the clutch disc turn? Let me know whatcha think.

Thanks,
Dave



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