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RKS
05-26-1999 02:42:29
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Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to Bear, 05-25-1999 07:04:35
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I would think your problems may be solved with new points and condenser, if you do it right. There may be a tad of contact material left on the breaker points which quickly overheats and doesn't funtion correctly. I had a Ford 600 that acted the same way, until I discovered the points were burned almost completely off, and all that was left was just a tiny bit more than the two point arms alone. Any engine can run amazingly good for a long time and then amazingly bad just minutes later and it be the points or condenser. Checking the ballast resistor is probably always a good idea, although from looking at mine on my H, it appears to be simply a very crude "current flow limiter" which either has a permanent "go" or "no go" condition. However, also remember that you have a myriad of "ballast resistors" on that tractor, one each at "every single wire contact" in the entire electrical and ignition system. They can act like you say, although I doubt a line break or open would behave exactly as predictable as you say - - "immediately crank and then again die." Line breaks that are very predictable are usually temp sensitive. Although, if you assume the coil and carb are ok, and you replace the points/condenser, and the problem continues, you will have to look for a line break, including in the distributor cap itself, rotor, and the high voltage side of the coil and plugs. My guess is the points fix it. Cheers, RKS
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