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Order Farmall Cub Parts Online

Cub Quits When Hot

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Bear

05-25-1999 07:04:35




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My 1967 Cub cuts out and eventually quits after running for 15-20 minutes. I have changed the coil, verified fuel flow as being un-obstructed, and am going to replace points/condenser. It will immediately start after dying and will run for a few feet before dying again. Ideas?




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lc

05-26-1999 06:41:50




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 Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to Bear, 05-25-1999 07:04:35  
If the electrical fixes don't work, might check the float valve in carb. I remember a cub that would run little then quit because it was flooding.



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RKS

05-26-1999 02:42:29




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 Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to Bear, 05-25-1999 07:04:35  
I would think your problems may be solved with new points and condenser, if you do it right. There may be a tad of contact material left on the breaker points which quickly overheats and doesn't funtion correctly. I had a Ford 600 that acted the same way, until I discovered the points were burned almost completely off, and all that was left was just a tiny bit more than the two point arms alone. Any engine can run amazingly good for a long time and then amazingly bad just minutes later and it be the points or condenser. Checking the ballast resistor is probably always a good idea, although from looking at mine on my H, it appears to be simply a very crude "current flow limiter" which either has a permanent "go" or "no go" condition. However, also remember that you have a myriad of "ballast resistors" on that tractor, one each at "every single wire contact" in the entire electrical and ignition system. They can act like you say, although I doubt a line break or open would behave exactly as predictable as you say - - "immediately crank and then again die." Line breaks that are very predictable are usually temp sensitive. Although, if you assume the coil and carb are ok, and you replace the points/condenser, and the problem continues, you will have to look for a line break, including in the distributor cap itself, rotor, and the high voltage side of the coil and plugs. My guess is the points fix it. Cheers, RKS

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Bear

05-26-1999 05:27:50




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 Re: Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to RKS, 05-26-1999 02:42:29  
Walt, Mey, RKS,

Thanks for Info on my Cub! I'm off to experiment with your suggestions and will report back in day or so. Thanks again!

Bear



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RKS

05-26-1999 10:21:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to Bear, 05-26-1999 05:27:50  
he's off the see "the Wizard." I have been a few times to Oz myself. In fact, that old wizard sold me some parts I wish I could find him and give them back. RKS



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Walt

05-25-1999 07:55:30




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 Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to Bear, 05-25-1999 07:04:35  
I had this problem with my '64 lo-boy, after exhausting every other avenue I just happened to look at the ballast resistor, after removing it I found it to be cracked. My conclusion was it would get hot and expand thus opening the crack wider and breaking any electical connection. Does your cub have a ballast resistor? This would be connected between the coil and the distributor, if you have one on your cub you can replace it with a chrysler ballast resistor from the late 70's.

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Mey(NH-50 Cub)

05-25-1999 07:49:15




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 Re: Cub Quits When Hot in reply to Bear, 05-25-1999 07:04:35  
Bear, Check the air filter system make sure it's not clogged up, especially that little tube that rune to the crankcase. You also could be on to something with the points and condensor, theoretically, the condensor either works or doesn't but can produce similar symtoms of a bad coil. Mey



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