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Removing H Head Studs

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Zonie

09-02-2001 18:21:48

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I'm about to give up after getting all the head studs out except 3.
I was pulling them so I can get the top surface of the block surfaced. I had one stud that was rusted about half way thru when I pulled the head.
I did manage to get that stud out (the center stud)and I did break off one stud just flush with the head. Now I have 2 more studs that just refuse to budge and I'm afraid that I'll break them too. I have been soaking them with PB Blaster for a couple weeks and tapping on them with a hammer but the last 2 just don't want to move.
I'm open for other ideas if anyone has any. I know someone has to have some ideas!!!!

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Scott

09-05-2001 10:09:22

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Re: Removing H Head Studs in reply to Zonie, 09-02-2001 18:21:48

I am going thru a Super M that had a 2 row mounted cornpicker on it. The picker mounting bolts had been allowed to loosen, and eventually shear off in the front bolster. These are big bolts, 3/4", and the only thing that worked was to use the torch and blow the bolts out of their holes a little at a time. Remember, the bolt will melt away before the cast does. Drilling a small pilot hole thru the bolt helps too. We used this technique to remove 11 broken bolts and studs in all. All holes were cleaned up with taps and re-used. Minimal thread damage.It kind of scared me at first, but with caution, worked out great.

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Andy Martin

09-03-2001 06:57:19

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Re: Removing H Head Studs in reply to Zonie, 09-02-2001 18:21:48

I am a big fan of welding nuts on flush breaks, and had to try 3 or 4 times recently on a transmission top plate mounting bolt.

BUT when you give up, let the machine shop you take it to take out the stud. Don't break an easy out off in it. It is much harder to drill them, especially if your hole (and easy out) is off center.

A good machine shop will line up the drill bit dead center of the hole to avoid damaging the threads, and will do all the drilling with left hand drill bits. Usually the stud will catch on the drill bit and back right on out before the last size hole is finished. If not, the original threads can usually still be cleaned up.

Another lesson from experience, after you get oil, etc. worked into threads which will budge but not come on off, heating may coke the oil and freeze the joint up real good. I did this on a 3-point adjustable arm and then had to do a lot of heating and pounding to loosen the joint.

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Zonie

09-03-2001 00:06:05

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Re: Removing H Head Studs in reply to Zonie, 09-02-2001 18:21:48

Well I did get one more out and broke of the other, Thanks for the input. I guess there's somethings the penetrating oil won't do!

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another doug

09-03-2001 07:02:56

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Re: Re: Removing H Head Studs in reply to Zonie, 09-03-2001 00:06:05

Zonie, I'm sure you're sick of it by now "but", I always remembered what my vocational teacher always preached about heat, I use heat when I need some confidence,Sorry guys I'm not a big PB Blaster fan, Heat expands metal, makes it swell , only a little , but sometimes thats all you need, tapping on the stud is also something my instructor believed in too, In this case an electric heat gun won't provide enough heat, try the torch, gently lick the flame over the surrounding area, being a cylinder head ,it'll take awhile ,as that is a big heat sink , don't train the heat so it gets the head cherry red, just don't want to heat up the stud either, just the metal around it, be patient, this is serious .,the next resort is the grizzly task of drilling , if it's broke off hopefully you'll have enough to weld( arc welder) a nut or thick flat washer to, it does sometimes take several tries , the idea is to allow the surrounding metal to loosen it's grip by expanding it , don't rush , you are the doctor

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ohioron

09-02-2001 19:22:58

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Re: Removing H Head Studs in reply to Zonie, 09-02-2001 18:21:48

Like the man says you will end up drilling them out most likely. Just finished removing 2 on a 460 block, broken off flush. Welded a half dozen times, nuts and washers on the stud with no success. Even froze them with dry ice. One mistake I did make that I'll save you from, don't spray PB on a hot broken stud in an attempt to get it into the treads. It made the surface of the stud so hard that a $15 1/4 inch carbide bit wouldn't touch it. Had to grind the surface of the stud away to get to softer metal, with a small stone, before I could drill it. I wish you success. Just take your time and take breaks.

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Dave T

09-02-2001 18:42:37

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Re: Removing H Head Studs in reply to Zonie, 09-02-2001 18:21:48

If push comes to shove, it appears you'll have to drill them out. There are other tricks that others will suggest, but I find after everything has been tried, it's drill and tap time.

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