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Overrun question 2

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Ludwig

02-25-1999 07:19:35




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Thanks to all who answered the call for my overrunning clutch question below, a couple more things:

Where does one get the shaft shaft from the tractor to the implement shortened? And about how much does that cost?

Can anyone comment on the actual use of the thing? When I mow now, when I want to stop I have to make sure that there's plenty of space in front of me, get a firm grip on the wheel with one hand, and the seat post with the other, drop in the clutch and STAND UP on the brakes, and then the tractor keeps on going until the mower runs out of kinetic energy and stops. Not the safest or best system by any means. I'm also paranoid that if I break a brake band I'll suddenly find myself slipping around in a tight turn. For safety's sake I only ever mow in low gear.

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Phil Auten

02-26-1999 04:16:42




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 Re: Overrun question 2 in reply to Ludwig, 02-25-1999 07:19:35  
Ludwig, You may not have to shorten the driveshaft. If
it will slip together enough to get the coupler
onto the overrun clutch, it'll be fine. I had to
extend my shaft when I switched tractors recently.
If you do need to shorten the shaft, I would take
the existing shaft to an implement dealer and get
them to assist. They'll probably either be able
to do it there or know where to get it done.

Good luck,
Phil

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john d.

02-25-1999 14:27:17




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 Re: Overrun question 2 in reply to Ludwig, 02-25-1999 07:19:35  
I run a Brady flail chopper behind a Super M to do general mowing and level the sweetcorn stalks in the garden when the good eating is done. I'd suggest two things:

(1) If you don't have an extension on the drawbar, get one, as it may give you enough clearnce to put in the overrunning clutch. These things are made out of heavy plate, and are about 1' long. If you have a swinging drawbar, you may be able to lock it at the midpoint of the regular drawbar and use it.
(2) I don't have an over-running clutch, but I don't have to mow up to any fence corners either! I know it's not considered good form, and probably puts some wear into the pto shifter, but I've frequently been guilty of shoving the throttle hard forward, then depressing the clutch as I push the pto rod down quickly to dis-engage the pto while moving. Takes a little practice to sequence the three moves right, but it works without pushing the tractor forward, and hasn't torn the thing up yet in 25 years of doing it! With a little practice, you can dis-engage the pto when there is no load on the shaft. Overall, probably not as hard on the machinery (or nerves) as trying to stop the mower with the brakes!

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Try it, you'll like it

02-25-1999 18:58:56




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 Re: Re: Overrun question 2 in reply to john d., 02-25-1999 14:27:17  
John, Invest in a overunning clutch and I'll guarantee you will like it better than your method of knocking the pto out of gear, even if you have been doing it for 25 years. It's also easier on the drive train. You can also safely mow into your fence corners knowing you can stop.



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Stan(VA).

02-25-1999 08:29:38




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 Re: Overrun question 2 in reply to Ludwig, 02-25-1999 07:19:35  
Ludwig,
As far as shortening the shaft, that depends on the design. If it has a simple slip shaft without extra collars on the ends you could shorten it your-self with a hacksaw. Otherwise you might need to take it to a driveshaft shop that shortens/lengthens shafts and they usually offer ballancing and new Ujoints, etc.

As far as using the overiding coupler, when you push in the clutch and stand on the brake, the tractor will actually just stop (imagine that) and the PTO shaft and your mower will keep freewheeling until it stops on it's own. You will just hear a clicking sound coming from the overiding coupler like a rachet wrench spining in it's unlocked direction.
Stan(VA).

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