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'39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM

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BRIAN MCCOMBS

02-14-1999 03:28:52




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MY FARMALL A RADIATOR KEEPS BOILING OVER AFTER THE ENGINE RUNS FOR A WHILE. THE OUTSIDE OF THE RADIATOR IS CLEAN, ALL ENGINE GASKETS ARE NEW. I'M NOT GETTING WATER IN THE OIL. THE WATER IN THE RADIATOR DOESN'T APPEAR TO BUBBLE AS IF CYLINDER PRESSURE IS ESCAPING INTO THE COOLING SYSTEM. SINCE THERE IS NO WATER PUMP I CAN'T TELL IF THE WATER IS CIRCULATING OR NOT. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE ANY CRACKS IN THE BLOCK OR HEAD. MY MANUAL SAYS IT COULD BE LIME BUILD-UP, IF SO, WHAT WOULD YOU USE TO FLUSH THE SYSTEM AND MAKE IT RIGHT. THANK YOU FOR ANY COMMENT OR ADVICE.

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Dickie Vaughan

05-30-2003 08:54:30




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 Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to BRIAN MCCOMBS, 02-14-1999 03:28:52  
You mentioned new gaskets. Did the overheating start after replacing the gaskets? I believe there is a difference in head gaskets for an engine with and one without a water pump. Check with you supplier. When I restored my '46 A the block had "mud" around the bottom of the sleeves. You will find the restoration photos at this site:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4108663&a=30632328&f=0

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Steve Harder

10-16-2001 15:55:06




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 Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to BRIAN MCCOMBS, 02-14-1999 03:28:52  
I just got done doing a 1940 A and found the water channel was totally closed off from front to rear. Pull your lower radiator pipe off the motor and check it.



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big fred

02-15-1999 09:30:55




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 Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to BRIAN MCCOMBS, 02-14-1999 03:28:52  
Just read an explanation a few days back of how one fellow solved the exact same problem. Turns out that if you don't mix the anti-freeze with the water before you add it to the radiator, it will not circulate, as the thermosiphon system relies on density changes between the hot and cold water to cause it to circulate. The antifreeze is lighter and just sits on top, and prevents the hot water from circulating into the radiator. Try running it with just water and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then you can drain and refill with pre-mixed water/antifreeze mixture. If I run across the post (I think it was on Tractor Talk) again I will let you know more.

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Cotten

02-26-2001 12:12:32




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 Re: Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to big fred, 02-15-1999 09:30:55  
I have a farmall 100 with the 3 point hitch and I would like to know the largest size disk I can use behind it which will not cause the tractor any problems. I was told by a salesman a 16 blade disk with 18 inches on each blade will work fine. This is my first year doing a garden...



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big fred

02-15-1999 09:47:54




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 Re: Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to big fred, 02-15-1999 09:30:55  
Found the post. As of 2/15/99 it was on page 5 of the Tractor Talk board. I cut it and pasted it below. It involves a John Deere, but I imagine the info is good anyway.

Turf Boy: OK. Here's the scoop. The tractor was a '39 JD A. It did not have a water pump, but, as did all early JD A's and B's, depended on
"Thermo-Syphon" circulation of the coolant through the engine block and radiator. In order for this system to work, the coolant must expand (become less
dense) when heated (by the engine) so that it tends to rise and displace cooler material in the radiator. Circulation in the cooling system is thus obtained. Such
expansion is characteristic of water. This system was used with many early IC engines, including automotive. It requires an appreciable elevation difference
between the heat source (engine) and the heat sink (radiator). Also necessary is the use of a coolant which expands when heated (like water) to stimulate
circulation. Common antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is NOT (I learned!) such a coolant. In my case, I had drained the cooling system and then added a gallon or
so of antifreeze, followed by enough water to fill the system. The antifreeze entered the engine water jacket but, when the engine started to warm, did not
create circulation. Not suspecting a problem, I was not watching the tractor as I should have been. The engine got hot, no--HOT! After realizing what I'd
done, I let the system cool, then drained the system again. I allowed the antifreeze to mix with the water and put it back in the system. It worked OK after
that.

I should add that the tractor was (is) a toy and I didn't work it hard at all. Undoubtedly, ethylene glycol does not expand on heating and thus impairs the
cooling activity (circulation) of thermo syphon systems. I found out later that JD recommended draining of their TS cooling systems during cold weather,
rather than the use of antifreeze. Now I know why!

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Bob Schuler

02-14-1999 05:43:05




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 Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to BRIAN MCCOMBS, 02-14-1999 03:28:52  
Took my A- radiator to a radiator shop and let them clean it with acid, it works like new again.



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C. Amick

02-15-1999 09:46:05




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 Re: Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to Bob Schuler, 02-14-1999 05:43:05  
Sounds like getting it cleaned is a good idea. The radiator on my Super C had a lot of sediment build up in it. In fact, when I went to drain it nothing would come out the drain cock. You don't have a pressure cap on it do you? If all else fails, I think a water pump off a "C" could be put on it. A water pump might also increase engine life.



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big fred

02-15-1999 09:53:20




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 Re: Re: Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to C. Amick, 02-15-1999 09:46:05  
There's a fellow that has a Ford model 'A' engine in an airplane. He added a Maytag washing machine pump to it to circulate the coolant. Lightweight, simple and, in his case, free. Could probably pick one up at a appliance graveyard for a couple bucks. If you're wondering what kind of airplane uses a model 'A' engine, click on the link below.

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CHRIS AUER

02-14-1999 20:18:08




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 Re: Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to Bob Schuler, 02-14-1999 05:43:05  

JUST HAVE THE RADIATOR TANKED. MAKE SURE THE GUY UNDERSTANDS IT'S A 60 YEAR OLD NON-PRESSURIZED SYSTEM WHEN HE LEAK TESTS. FLUSH THE HELL OUT THE BLOCK BEFORE REINSTALLATION AND YOU SHOULD BE ALL SET



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CHRIS AUER

02-14-1999 20:18:05




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 Re: Re: '39 FARMALL A OVERHEATING PROBLEM in reply to Bob Schuler, 02-14-1999 05:43:05  

JUST HAVE THE RADIATOR TANKED. MAKE SURE THE GUY UNDERSTANDS IT'S A 60 YEAR OLD NON-PRESSURIZED SYSTEM WHEN HE LEAK TESTS. FLUSH THE HELL OUT THE BLOCK BEFORE REINSTALLATION AND YOU SHOULD BE ALL SET



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