- -engine

Gene

I'm unfamiliar with your tractor, but it should use the same procedure as other 4 cylinder tractors (if it is a 4 cyl). With #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke, adjust valves 123&5. Rotate the engine 180 degrees and adjust valves 467&8...valves numbered from front to rear. By doing it this way, you can be sure the follower is opposite to the lobe on the cam.

Just to eliminate the possibility of sticking valves, lubricate the stems with your favorite magic potion while you are there.

George Willer

Thanks. I am not a mechanic and wasn't sure about the wider gap effect on anything, certainly not the timing of the valve. I had hoped to find them too tight, but maybe glad they weren't as they might have burnt. I have not adjusted the valves yet, but most of them are sitting about .042 to .045 or so. Thanks so much for the instructions as to how to set them properly. Book says .027 both intake and exhaust, so will handle accordingly. Thanks again.

Thanks for confirming what I thought after I looked at the valve lash. I had hoped to find one or more valves too tight. Will adjust and go on. I agree with you on carb. I have had it overhauled twice, fuel flow tested, and finally, bought a new one from IH/Case. Installed it, and problem continues. Still I think it is too rich a mixture. Neither of these carbs have an adjustable main jet. The original was a Marvel Schebler and the replacement is a Zenith. They are controlled by fuel solenoid with fixed jet. Thanks.

I ran into this before and someone said "no problem", but wanted to run it by you. When I put a volt meter on the battery, it reads about 12.85 volts. When I turn on the switch and check the lead coming to the coil, the voltage is about 7.64 volts. What drops the voltage going to the coil? Or, is this THE problem symptom?. Thanks.

Thanks, and that has been a suspicion for quite a while. Have changed the coil twice now. The coil has internal resistor and is a 12Volt coil. But, the tractor, as shipped is a 12Volt, negative ground system. Maybe something has been changed or is missing from the ignition system - resistor, + and - reversed, ignition switch bad?, not sure what else. Do you know a good source for a wiring schematic that could be used to compare against? The tractor, as of now, fouls plugs with gasoline based soot indicating too rich a mixture. New coil installed. The engine does make a noise (the miss), that sounds more like a "puff" more than a miss. Not sure how that compares to sounding like an air compressor, but your description of a partially burned fuel mixture fits to a tee. Now, how to eliminate that as a possibility? Thanks!!

I had a combine engine one time that had a carb float that had a small hole in it that let the gas level in the carb be too high and it ran poor and had alot of black smoke.

Where is the key located, on the distributor shaft ? Or the timing gear ? Thanks.

Thanks for the response. You are right about me trying anything. I have been through a lot of things that could be a problem and have found some that made it run a bit better, and the tractor runs great when it is a cooler day. The manuals I have are pretty vague on things (tells you just enough to get in trouble). I started out thinking ignition problem, changed some parts (all except the distributor I think). With all the changes to the ignition system, I still don't have a really "hot" spark, compared to most of the engines I have dealt with. I have advanced the timing some, retarded it, and went back to the book setting at high idle of 20 BTDC. I removed the distributor point "plate" and examined the spring/weights assembly and cleaned it. Whether the advance mechanism is working properly, I can't tell, but it does advance when revved up and doesn't stutter trying to come up to speed. The tractor "runs like a top" when first started up, but when it gets hot (not overheated or anything), the miss returns. Seems to be random, no rhythm to it. The only thing that remains constant is the black, fouled plugs that smell with gasoline when removed. Sorry about the long winded response, but just wanted to relay what I know to this point. I would put all of the things that have been done, parts changed, and maybe should in another posting. Maybe I should wait until cooler weather and sell the thing to someone in a cooler state. Thanks again. Frustrated !

As far as the miss... I have to wonder about a cracked intake manifold or gasket. Seems if you loose enough vacccuum after the carb, it would pull more fuel - due to the loss of vaccuum before the carb, then foul the plugs. An easy way to check is to spray it with carb cleaner.. if it's cracked, it will rev-up.

Thanks for your response. I have looked at the manifold and examined for cracks. Can't see any, but some parts of manifold are hard to see. I think I am going to pull it off and take it to a machine shop and have it "trued" and magnafluxed. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the manifold gasket with no noticable change in the engine sound or anything. Will try it again anyway. Thanks again.

Thanks for your help. No, the IH 464 I have has a C-175 4 cylinder engine. As far as compression tests, the last one I ran was on a warm engine. Book says should be 170, compression ranged between 155 and 163 or so. Never have run it on a hot engine. You mentioned an adjustable main jet from an "M" carburetor, or 400 or 450. I wonder if it work on the tractor of mine, governor linkage, and all. I certainly would love to try it. I had asked the IH dealer if a variable adjustment of the main jet was available and they said no. I even tried different size jets that were available for the MS carbuertor. I had the smaller one in it - when I got the other jet I installed it anyway - made matters worse. I have a lot of spare parts left over with no solution. Again, thanks - I will call Case/IH again to see if there may be another carb that would fit, or maybe somehow adapt the carb I have to a variable main jet.