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BOB M, situation has changed but I'm still charged up!

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05-05-2001 14:17:10

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Right now the wiring harness for my 300 is laying on my shop floor, and I'm starting over from scratch.

From your description of the alternator, I have the spades in line like this - -. I am looking at a wiring diagram from this site. This diagram uses the three wire alternator. Because of this, I pulled the rubber plug and have wired up the alternator as shown in the diagram. I have a jumper going from terminal 2 to the batt terminal on the alternator, and I was planning on running a line from terminal 1 to the ignition switch. Should I do this or should I put it back the way it was?

My main question concerns the ignition switch. There are four screw terminals on the back. They are labeled SOL, ACC, IGN, and BAT. This is how I would wire this up: The wire from the fuse holder goes to the ACC terminal. The small orange wire from the small top post on my starter soleniod goes to the SOL terminal. A wire from the alternator side of my ammeter goes to the BAT terminal on the switch. Finally, the wire from the hot/positive side of my coil goes to the IGN terminal on the back of the switch. Is this correct? If I keep the alternator wired up as I described above, what terminal on the switch does the wire from terminal 1 on the alternator go to?

Thanks for your patience and advice,


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05-06-2001 04:28:41

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 Re: BOB M, situation has changed but I'm still charged up! in reply to Thor, 05-05-2001 14:17:10  

you can hook #1 to the acc the engine will stop without using a light or a diode.

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Bob M

05-06-2001 12:48:08

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 Re: Re: BOB M, situation has changed but I'm still charged up! in reply to W.W., 05-06-2001 04:28:41  
Good suggestion!

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Bob M

05-05-2001 15:13:10

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 Re: BOB M, situation has changed but I'm still charged up! in reply to Thor, 05-05-2001 14:17:10  
Hi again Thor - That's what I did with one of mine (stripped the old harness off and rewired from scratch). Sounds like you're on the right track, but to be sure here's how I'd wire the key switch:

BAT - 12 volt supply to the switch. Pick it off the GENERATOR side (actually the alternator side in your case ...) of the ammeter.

IGN - To the coil "+" terminal

SOL - To the starter solenoid coil.

ACC - (no connection)

I'd then feed the fuse holder - I presume it's the headlight fuse - from the GENERATOR side of the ammeter. This way you can use the lights without turning on the key switch. (However if DO you want the lights to go off with the key switch, feed the fuse holder from the ACC terminal.)

Regarding the alternator, I'd try it first without any connection to the 2 aux terminals. If you find it works - great! But if you find it does not charge, only then would I make the two connections. Note! Be sure to include a small lamp bulb (use a side marker or instrument panel lamp) between the ignition switch and the #1 terminal. If you don't, the alternator will back feed the coil when you turn off the key switch and the motor will keep running.

Have fun! ...Bob M

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