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JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?)

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BZ

02-16-2002 05:23:22




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I was wondering, since I have the motor pulled in my 350 dozer, how difficult is it to replace the steering clutches. Both sides? Does one have to have any special tools? When I was using it this past summer, after I used it for about an hour, the left side would not spin a track or steer to the right. I have tried to adjust the clutch and brake several times. But the same results. So, I figured while I have it down, in the pole barn, I would go ahead and replace both sides. I have never done this before, but would like to try. Any tips, or verbal help would be appreciated. I have a buddy who said he would help me do it.
Thanks!
BZ

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Todd

02-18-2002 17:21:52




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 Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-16-2002 05:23:22  
BZ when your ready to buy steering parts give DAW Pro-Track a call (814)355-7479 there in Bellefonte Pa ask for Jewels.Jd price for discs 45.00ea,DAW-14.95 when I did mine.



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BZ

02-18-2002 18:17:18




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 Re: Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to Todd, 02-18-2002 17:21:52  
Thanks Todd! I will need all the help I can get! I am looking for prices on pressure plates, throwout bearings, and rails,rollers,and I am also looking for a front crossover member. Thanks Again!
BZ



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BZ

02-17-2002 06:45:19




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 Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-16-2002 05:23:22  
Thanks for the input. I am first trying to break the track. First hurdle to do, smashed hand with sledge. Going to have to find something to heat it up with. After I get that broke, I will proceed with what the manual says. Just wondering if side tanks, fuel tank HAVE to come off? And yes I want to replace all inside. Broke several bolts off on the rail so far. Can new rails be gotten for these? Also, Does anyone know where, and how much somewhat, a front crossover member would run?
Thanks!
BZ

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gatractorman

02-18-2002 02:52:41




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 Re: Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-17-2002 06:45:19  
Hey BZ, on the 350 the tanks dont hafta come off just makes it a little easier if'fin there outta the way but its kinda a trade-off those tanks are a pain to get off, what rail are you breakin' bolts off in? not sure I know what your talkin about here, track frame mabye? it doesn't hafta move to remove final drive, I would check with a junkyard for the front cross member but be careful you might get one in worse shape than yours.

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BZ

02-18-2002 06:19:05




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 Re: Re: Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to gatractorman, 02-18-2002 02:52:41  
Well, Got the left track off. And the sprocket. The track rails are in pretty bad shape. The crossover (front) has been welded where it bolts onto the rails. So I figured I would replace the rails, and also the front crossover. So I had to take the blade attachment off. Its an outside mounted blade, so the bracket has to come off. But it looks like someone has welded it on also. I was trying to break the mounting bolts loose, and they, (most) of them broke off instead. Looks like I may have to cut the bracket off now. I will need bottom rollers also. Looks like some of them have been welded on. Looks like my next objective now, is to figure out how to get the 4 bolts that bolt to the final from rear crossover off. I wonder if the final can be removed, if I take the caps off instead. I can get to them easier, then the 4 bolts that bolt to the final.
Thanks!
BZ

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gatractorman

02-19-2002 02:42:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-18-2002 06:19:05  
Hey BZ, ok now I know what your doin that was a very common problem on the 350's the front crossmember being welded to the track frame, as far as the cap on the back I dont know if the final will come off by taking the cap off, I always took the 4 big bolts out, their a pain and tight if you do take them out 2 of them should be shoulder bolts with a hump in the middle of them for alignment purposes.

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BZ

02-19-2002 04:49:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to gatractorman, 02-19-2002 02:42:12  
Thanks for the input. Glad to know mine, is not the only one with the front crossmember welded! I am going to try and heat up the 4 bolts before I try and break them loose. Trying to figure out how to get a wrench on those rascals! The 4 cap bolts would be easier to get free. But dont know if the final would make it off then.
Thanks!
BZ



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Paul

02-17-2002 04:20:52




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 Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-16-2002 05:23:22  
I just got done doing my final drive on my 350 and its not easy but i have service manual go buy one it will be the best money you ever spent.Ihad a440 and its got about the same final drives had them off many times you really need the service manual. The 350 is anice little machine i just got done making a track press and putting in new pins and bushings now i'm building a 6 way blade sure wish mine had a reverser but its just a straight standard.

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bob

02-18-2002 22:59:39




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 Re: Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to Paul, 02-17-2002 04:20:52  
Be glad you have the standard! The ones w/reversers have couplings joining trans. shaft to rear end, etc. and these couplings wear out & you suddenly come to a halt one day, altho the engine is running just fine. The splines on the ends of the shafts wear off & cannot be repaired, meaning all those shafts must come out and be replaced over a $5 part wearing out! Plus a standard has much more power than reverser models because power is diverted to the reverser all the time.

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gatractorman

02-17-2002 03:20:22




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 Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-16-2002 05:23:22  
Hey BZ, the other guys have gotten you a good start, break track, remove sprocket, go inside where your brake band adjustment is and back it all the way off or it wont let the final come off, and also if you replace pressure plate (recommended) there is an adjustment on finger height and I cant for the life of me remember what it is mabye someone else knows or you might get this little bit of info from your friendly (haha) JD dealer, anyway good luck and if you need anything else just post.

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SteveB

02-16-2002 19:03:36




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 Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-16-2002 05:23:22  
Bz, I did the same thing to my 350B last fall, John Deere wanted close to 3200.00 for the job, So I went to work. First thing to do is make a master pin remover out of 7/8 inch bar. Weld on a length to hold on to the driver which should be around 16" long, It should look like a T with one side longer, to drine out the pin. Get yourself a rosebud tip on an Oxy Ascet torch. Lift the machine so the tracks will turn, and position the master pin so it is in front and around 4 O'clock. Heat the track links so they are nice and red around the pin. Drive out the pin with a sledge, useing some wood to hold the driver in position. Now that the tracks are off, you need to remove the drive sprocket, EZ. The bolts that hold the final on are 3/4" and a couple are a pain in the balls to loosen, Again heat will help along with a 3/4 breaker bar and a peice of pipe. You shold make yourself a final hanger out of 36" of 1/2" bar. Bend this so you can insert the hanger in the face of the final, and attach a chain so you can use a cherry picker or bucket loader to help remove the final. I'm tired of typing, Let me know if you need help..... ..Steve

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RonMC

02-16-2002 13:02:36




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 Re: JD 350 (dry) Steering clutch replacement (difficult?) in reply to BZ, 02-16-2002 05:23:22  
BZ - I'm sure someone on here can tell you how similar this is to an MC re: final drives, but I have some parts diagrams I just scanned for someone else that I can send along if you'd like them.They make it fairly clear how it comes apart. Just e-mail me direct - I don't see yours at the top - and I'll shoot them off. If it is the same, and I think it is, it's not a bad job after you get the tracks, sprockets and housings off. They are a bit touchy going back, but if you make some long headless bolts up as pilots, it's not too bad to get the drum inside the brake band. Let me know, Ron

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