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Case Tractors Discussion Forum
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VAC

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53DC

05-01-2006 05:14:11




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Hey guys and gals. Just picked up a VAC and the rear end is just about dry. Anyone know where I can pick up manuals for this tractor. What fluid should I run in the rear end and about how much will it take? There is a dipstick beside the shifter. Is that the only place that I need to add fluid or is there somewhere else that I am missing? When I picked it up the Eagle Hitch arms came right up like they should. When I got home they would not go down. Is there something that I need to check? Everything else seems to be good on it. Purrs like a kitten. What is the lightest weight class I will be able to pull this in? Thanks for the help.

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JustIn Case

05-02-2006 13:26:52




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 Re: VAC in reply to 53DC, 05-01-2006 05:14:11  
I have 1946 VAC. This summer I aim to drain the transmission oil repair the PTO and brake seals, replace the cracked and worn out shift boot to keep the water out. As tractor restoration funds are kinda slow accumulating I have purchased 5 of the 7 gallons of oil for the transmission. The transmission is pretty good, but, there is quite a bit of gear noise in second gear. I purchased this tractor in running condition from my uncle who was the original new owner of it, he said it always was noisy in second never really getting better or worse. I was going to refill it with 85W140 gear oil with the thought that the heavier oil might help the noise. I would be interested in any comment regarding the use of this weight of oil, is it too thick???Jim

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C. Amick

05-02-2006 09:30:27




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 Re: VAC in reply to 53DC, 05-01-2006 05:14:11  
You might find the information on the web site below useful.



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Joe (Wa)

05-01-2006 17:10:55




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 Re: VAC in reply to 53DC, 05-01-2006 05:14:11  
The factory transmission oil was SAE 90 gear oil. Multi-weight oils like 80-90 work ok too. Capacity is 7 gals. Fill to mark on dipstick.

Other oil required is in the torque tube, factory oil was 5W,10W or 20W engine oil pending ambient temps. Capacity is 2 gals. General purpose hydraulic oil or 10-30 motor oil is often used.

Steering gear box requires SAE 140 gear oil or grease pending model year, wfe, or nfe.

And of course, engine crankcase and air intake oil cup.

There are several reasons for the eagle hitch problem. The control valve may be stuck or spring broken, release valve not actuating, lash not set properly on either of those valves or the actuator is broken, cylinder scored with leather cup hung on earlier models, return oil restricted possibly by filter but more likely by the release valve or tubing.

You'll have to provide more info to figure out your problem. With the engine off, lever in the down position can you push the draft arms down? If so, do they raise again when you start the engine with the lever in the neutral position.

When you grease the rock shaft, the grease accumulates under the piston and is pushed back to the torque tube along with any leak-by oil via the 5/16" tubing on the lower right side of the rock shaft housing. If this tube becomes plugged with hard grease there will be an air lock under the piston and the draft arms will not drop under there own weight but can be pushed down by hand in most cases.

The ebay manual cited is too old for your tractor, dated 8-48, won't cover eagle hitch or other changes 49 & later.

Joe

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Sam#3

05-01-2006 17:09:04




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 Re: VAC in reply to 53DC, 05-01-2006 05:14:11  
I copied this from a post over two years ago. It"s a good explanation of the VAC Eagle Hitch control.
I obtained a parts catalog from the Case dealer a couple years back. I think they also can supply Operations and Shop Manuals. About twenty dollars each.

In Reply to: Case VAC Eagle Hitch posted by Tim Campbell on October 20, 2003 at 13:13:03:

Hi Tim,

There four valves in the control block:

(A) lift valve aka pressure control valve.
(B) lift check valve.
(C) release valve.
(D) relief valve.

(1) When the engine is running with lever in neutral position the pump circulates the oil in the system and back to the torque tube via (A). (B), (C) & (D) are closed. Pump press is only that required to overcome friction to oil flow through the open system (guessing less than 10 psi).

(2) Lever moved to raise position closes (A), pump press builds up overcoming spring on (B) admitting oil to piston. Pump press continues to rise to overcome weight on draft arms up to the 800-900 psi setting of (D).

(3) With draft arms lifted, lever moved to neutral, a spring opens (A), press differential and a spring close (B). (C) & (D) remain closed. System is back to (1) above with pump circulating oil. Oil on the piston is in a hydraulic lock due to closed (B), (C), & (D). Oil press on the piston will be only that generated by the weight on the draft arms.

(4) Lever moved to lower position opens (C) dumping trapped oil on the piston back to the sump and draft arms drop. (A) is still open, (B) & (D) remain closed.

((This portion applies to the original post, Sam))
The draft arms can only lift when you start the engine and the lever is in neutral position when the return to the sump is restricted or blocked. Since your draft arms will drop when the lever is moved to the lower position, that block can only be (A) stuck closed and or the spring is broken. You have probably been operating the pump at full pressure circulating oil only when the pressure opened (D) at 800-900 psi with the same constant pressure on the piston. When you put the lever in the lower position, (C) opened and the pump simply did not have enough capacity to overcome the pressure drop plus the weight of/on the draft arms.

So now that it won�t lift at all it is possible that the pump is shot (or shaft key sheared?) from running up against relief pressure nearly 100% of the time (doubtful). (D) is now leaking and/or spring is broken (maybe). (C) is now stuck open and/or spring is broken (likely). Or a combination of above.

The are many reasons for a hitch that is operating normally to stop working I.E. sump low or dry, air being sucked into the pump, depth control lever or pin broken, lash setting screw(s) loose/backed off, etc, etc, etc.

You have been operating with one problem and have now developed an additional problem. There is no doubt that your lift valve is stuck closed and/or spring is broken. It is likely now that the release valve is stuck open and/or spring is broken.

Sorry for the long post, I am just too dumb to figure out a way to shorten it and get the point across. Joe

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Walt Davies

05-01-2006 09:14:02




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 Re: VAC in reply to 53DC, 05-01-2006 05:14:11  
here is a factor service manual that is on ebay its the best you can get the IT manuals are not as good as the case fatory manuals.
Walt

ebay # 7614711381



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Rob Garrick

05-01-2006 05:34:24




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 Re: VAC in reply to 53DC, 05-01-2006 05:14:11  
I have the same tractor and have the original manual for it. I will check some of these things out for you this week. As far as the hitch mine will not go down unless there is some weight on it. I just push down on one of the arms while lowering it if I don't have anything on the hitch. As far as I know that dipstick is the only place to add fluid for the rear end. It takes quite a bit but I can't remember off the top of my head. I will get back to you on it.

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53DC

05-01-2006 07:24:53




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 Re: VAC in reply to Rob Garrick, 05-01-2006 05:34:24  
Thanks. I have stood on the arms while trying to lower them and they will not move. If you can let me know about the fluids it would be a big help. Thanks again.



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