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Case Tractors Discussion Forum

530CK - Engine rebuild??? 4-cyl Gas Help!!!

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10-13-2005 06:43:53

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I know I was having an oil pump problem and there was a slight leak, but for the most part I was able to use my tractor for small short jobs and top the oil as required. Well, I think I blew it and didn't check the oil recently. The exaust use to be clean as fresh air and when I used it last night it was definitely burning oil.

I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty and am prertty good mechanically, but have never done an engine before. Is there much to it?

I have the manuals. I just want to know what my best options are, and if parts are readily available. It still runs but there's an obvious great power loss, and the exaust is now burning oil.

Which parts would I need apart from rings?

Do I need any real unique tools? I don't mind buying or renting reasonably priced tools but I don't plan on doing this again really.

Do I have to take the engine out or can I just work it from the top?

Would it be wiser to have somebody rebuild it for me? I'm not so much on the free cash side right now - quite the opposite actually.

How many man-hours of time am I looking at? I figure I can give it 3 or 4 hours at a shot (kids).

Are engine parts / kits available for this thing still, and if so can somebody give me a contact or webite?

I've been really impressed with the support I've received from this forum in the past and hope it comes through again.

Indiana Jerry.

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Roger (Mi)

10-14-2005 04:38:40

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 Re: 530CK - Engine rebuilding in reply to gbourck, 10-13-2005 06:43:53  
Yes, the engine can be rebuilt inframe. However, that depends on the condition of the crankshaft. If ANY crankshaft connecting rod journal is anymore than .002 out of round, the engine will need to be removed to have a machine shop recondition the crankshaft. There is an old saying: If you have neither time or money to do it RIGHT, when will you find more time and more money to do it over AGAIN! Remove the cylinder head. If the cylinder sleeves are NOT badly worn, a set of piston rings will cure your problem. You will need to remove the ridge caused by the piston rings at the top of the sleeves. Use a ridge reamer to remove the ridge BEFORE removing the pistons. Use a shop-vac to suck out shavings. Once the pistons are removed, clean oil from the sleeves, stuff shop rags at the bottom of each sleeve bore. (DO NOT ALLOW SHAVINGS OR GRIT TO FALL ONTO THE CRANKSHAFT OR INTO THE CRANKCASE!) Use a glaze breaker to remove the sleeve"s glaze. Throughly clean each sleeve bore with hand cleaner. (DO NOT USE GASOLINE!) Gasoline will cause grit to find its way into glaze breaking marks, and it will stay there causing premature ring failure! Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to remove carbon deposits in the piston ring groves. You could also use an old piston ring, break it, and grind a sharp wedge on it. Just use gloves to use this make-do tool. Make sure the rings are installed on the pistons exactly as the instructions say! The only other tool needed in addition to the ridge reamer, piston groove cleaner, will be a piston ring compressor. Make sure to install the pistons/rods in their original bores. Generally, the connecting rod numbering always faces the camshaft. Most pistons will have a mark on the top to indicate its forward position. Always use plenty of oil in assembly. (NEVER ASSEMBLE AN ENGINE DRY!) Personally, I like to replace the connecting rod bearings regardless of their looks when re-ringing an engine. USE THAT MANUAL! Good luck.

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10-14-2005 06:26:02

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 Re: 530CK - Engine rebuilding in reply to Roger (Mi), 10-14-2005 04:38:40  
Wow - thanks Roger. Doesn't sound too bad. Where do I get to the "Crankshaft Connecting Rod Journal" and then what do I use to determine how much it's out of round? Any special dial caliper? Is it hard to get at to measure?

Sorry about the possibly simple or obvious questions, but I'd rather be more cautious than proud.

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Roger (Mi)

10-15-2005 04:48:50

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 Re: Get a good quality measuring caliper in reply to gbourck, 10-14-2005 06:26:02  
Any industrial supply will have a good quality dial readout measuring caliper. Even a Sears tool department should have a good one. ($20-$40)

With all of the connecting rods and pistons removed from engine, rotate the crankshaft until a crankshaft journal is at its lowest position. Open the caliper, place it on the rod journal, tighten the caliper on the journal, and lock the caliper with the thumb screw lock to prevent a false reading as you remove the caliper from the journal. When it's removed, note the caliper reading. Compare it to the repair manual specifications. Rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and repeat the above measuring process on the same rod journal. Note the second caliper reading, and compare it to the first reading. There should be NO more than .0015 to .002 difference between the two readings. Repeat the process on the remaining 3 rod journals. If everything checks out, you'll only need to replace the rod bearings on your ring job. Good luck.

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