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Case Tractors Discussion Forum

DCTom thanks,

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Case1950

09-13-2005 19:19:50

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DCTom,

Thanks for the info on your method on how to unstick an engine. I welded up a hydrualic fitting onto a hollowed put spark plug. Hooked up my 1951 DC4 up to the hyd. hose and bumped the hyd control a few times. When the cylinder filled up with oil the engine turned over. I have tried other methods to free up the engine but had no success. I can now turn the engine over with the hand crank very easily.

#4 cylinder's valves are sticking a little but once I get that fixed I will try to get it running. I'm so impressed with your method I kind of wish I had another stuck tractor to unstick.

Thanks again,

Travis

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dctom

09-14-2005 06:51:48

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Re: DCTom thanks, in reply to Case1950, 09-13-2005 19:19:50

you are welcome, you got it for free, i useally charge 200 bucks plus oil to do it LOL tom

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Case1950

09-14-2005 19:38:10

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Re: DCTom thanks, in reply to dctom, 09-14-2005 06:51:48

Cost of oil is a good point. I have the biggest mess in my field right now. It looks like somebody struck oil around that tractor. I had oil coming out of the exhaust, intake and other spark plug holes.

Case1950

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rgorange

09-15-2005 15:07:09

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Re: DCTom thanks, in reply to Case1950, 09-14-2005 19:38:10

This is an interesting topic and you guys bring up some interesting points. I was wondering about making a big mess. Is there no way around that?. What are your recommendations? Presumably you have to do this on a cylinder with the valves closed. Chances are that is the cylinder least likely to be frozen. Most likely one frozen is the cylinder with exhaust valve open (if exhaust not covered). Does this matter? So as soon as it breaks free I suppose the valves will open; or is there too much pressure to allow that? Is there any danger of bending/breaking a valve stem from valve being forced shut by oil pressure? Would it be better to remove the rocker arm assembly and pull all of the valves closed and somehow hold them closed? If all is closed off, is there a danger in rupturing the oil pan from oil blowing by rings that may be broken?
Thanks.

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Case1950

09-15-2005 19:11:48

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Re: DCTom thanks, in reply to rgorange, 09-15-2005 15:07:09

I just picked the cylinder that had both valves closed and with the piston near the top of travel. I was lucky that it was #1 which looked like it had the most rust on the sleeve.

As far as breaking stuff I'm sure it could happen. I just bumped the hydrualic control. It took a little pressure to get it moving, but the engine turned over very slow, giving me time to let off the pressure and continue to bump it over some more. I then had to change to another cylinder because I still coundn't turn it with the hand crank. Now it turns over very easy with the hand crank.

The engine cylinder acts like a very big hydraulic cylinder. Because it is so large of an area, it will have alot of power but move quite slow. Remember a DC only has about 1150 PSI hyd. pressure, and you won't need all of it (hopefully).

Case1950

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todd hamilton

09-15-2005 07:20:08

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Re: DCTom thanks, in reply to Case1950, 09-14-2005 19:38:10

But think of all the money you will save on weed-killer!:^)

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