Good source for VAC Eagle hitch seals/gaskets?

Thanks In Advance!

-RobK

The older VA (< 1950?) piston had a leather cup p/n V22900 cross-ref p/n A30798 available from Case as late as last fall and also have seen them after-market. It may also be available as a kit: cup + plate + fastners p/n VTA1582 cross-ref p/n A30287.

Later VA (> 1950?) piston has 2 o-rings p/n V20353 cross-ref p/n A30757 available from Case or any decent hydraulic shop.

Either piston will fit the cylinder but the cup piston does not have lands for o-rings nor is the o-ring piston set-up for the cup. Regardless of the model year of the tractor, eyeball the piston before you go buying parts.

Joe

Before you jump in there and teardown the control valve down try this:

That 5/16" tubing located on the right lower side of the cylinder housing and leading back into the torque torque is the vent/leakoff for the rockshaft housing & under side of the piston. That tubing often gets plugged with hard grease from greasing the zerks on the rock shaft over the years. When that tubing gets plugged, the grease & leakby oil under the piston is forced out through the right side of the rock shaft instead of back into the torque tube per design.

The rockshaft has no bearings, just a close tolerance housing. There is a grease seal on the rockshaft left side but nothing on the right side (just the close fit of the shaft/hsg) so any oil under the piston will be force out the right side and drip off the control valve making it appear to be leaking when it very well may not be.

Disconnect the vent/leakoff tube fitting right there at the cylinder. Run the hitch up & down until the grease and oil is cleared out under the piston. After 10 or so evolutions there should be no more than a drop or so of oil as the draft arms are raised. If more, raise & hold some wt on the arms to get an idea if you need to change the piston cup/orings. Don't forget to check the rest of the tubing clear.

Anyway that's a start, may save some unnecessary work.

Joe

That said, the volume of fluid coming out of there is way too much. There just shouldn't be that much fluid trying to go through the vent/leakoff tube. I had my grader blade on it, and it would not stay up without actively pumping fluid in.

But it does sound like I won't need to rebuild the control valve, and that's a happy thing!

Thanks for your help!