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Jim, I use to repair those mechanical temp gauges as a time killer while working as a watch engr in ships. It is tedious and time consuming unless you can just change out the movement with cap tube. Most instrument shops won�t touch these things. I have changed the mechanical temp gauge to electric in a 311B and a 610B and will be doing my 310 shortly. The link is the type of 2" gauge movement that I use. You need to be 12v neg gnd to use this gauge. These gauges are very common to the 50,60, & 70's. The Stewart Warner p/n is 429724 located just above the 160� on the face plate. The sender is Case p/n A21462 (about $15) or you can buy a sender at an auto supply store that will match this gauge temp range. This is a 2 terminal gauge with a gnd terminal. The gnd terminal will be redundant when you remove the movement from the case. You will need to drill holes in the back of your gauge board for the ign & sender terminal. The gnd strip on the back of the movement will be in contact with the back of the gauge board when you tighten up the terminal nuts. It will be mounted and electrically connected just as your existing gas gauge is now. When you get the movement mounted in the case but before you bolt the case to the gauge board, connect up electrically, put the sender in a pan of water and heat to check the pointer sweep. You can adjust the pointer travel by bending the anvils below the coils in or out of the coil fields. I try to get mid point about 160� , check and put a small mark on the face plate at 212�. Your existing mech temp gauge face plate will fit this movement. Paint the pointer red with a Q-tip and you have a working gauge that looks original. Joe
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