DC front end

Also noticed two different types of shims. Some are contoured and the others are flat with notches for keyway. Put the contoured ones on first. By the time I made it back down to the shed, couldn't remember if that was right or not, but it seemed to be. I removed both front wheels to remove the spindle, just to see what was involved. Tell you what, a guy needs to have his little piggies out of the way when those wheels come loose. Wondering how many have replaced that bushing. Thanks.

All the shims do is correct the legnth of the spindle shaft. At the bottom of the spindle shaft there is a tapered bearing, when you bolt the steering arm on the top, you need shims to keep you from squeezing the tapered bearing too much. If you had too many shims, the shaft could move up and down too much. If you had too few shims, the steering arm would be forced against the goosneck casting and make it hard to turn. If you have more verticle movement in the spindle than shims will fix, you have a worn lower tapered bearing. None of this helps if you have a worn top bushing. I had a bushing made out of solid 660 bronze. It is no longer available new. My shaft was worn in the bushing area. I had the shaft turned down and the bushing made to fit the new shaft size. All this cost just under $100. To replace the bushing, remove the wheels, remove the steering arm and the shaft key. The shaft will drop out the bottom. Then drive the bushing up from the bottom with a long heavy punch and a disc shaped bushing driver. It's not too tight. Hope this all helps. Bruce