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Case Tractors Discussion Forum
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DCTOM - Some DC Info Please

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Greg

07-24-2004 12:02:03




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Greetings from Ontario Canada...

Was reading the letters and hoped you could answer some DC questions for me..

1) Do you have any production information about 5318218DC? (1949 DC-4)

2) Have a "knock" in the engine... a mechnaic looked at it and told me it was a wrist pin in cylinder #3. He also adjusted the connecting rod bearings for cylinders 1 and 2 on the crank. I noticed that when you remove the spark plug wire on #'s 3 and 4, the knock lessens considerably.

Had the access plates off to check the bearings where they connect to the crank and noted that the connecting rod bearings for cylinders three and four easily slide front to back on the crank but do not on #1 and 2. I used plastigage to check learance on #3 and it seems to be right where it is supposed to be. Does this sound right to you? I checked and found that there are no shims left on #4 and one set left on #3. Could this be part of the knock problem?

3) I also think that the valves are sounding noisier and noisier...I run unleaded fuel in it.

Found a guy out west that has "good" piston connecting rods and wrist pin assemblies for $50.00 each CDN. Was hoping to chnage the pin and rod on #3 and the rod only on #4 if this sliding is a concern.

Any thoughts?

Can this be done by removing the oil pan alone?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

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DCTOM

07-24-2004 18:10:17




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 Re: DCTOM - Some DC Info Please in reply to Greg, 07-24-2004 12:02:03  
GREG, 5318218 DC-4 WAS BUILT APRIL 7 1949 AND SHIPPED TO J I CASE CO WINNIPEG, MAN, CANADA APRIL 7 1949, KINDA SOUNDS LIKE HE HAS BEEN USED HARD BUT WELL MAINTINED, YOU CAN CHANGE PISTONS THRU THE HAND HOLES WITH OUT REMOVEING THE PAN THE UNETHICAL WAY I TIGHTEN THE ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS IS BY REMOVEING SHIMS TILL I CANT TURN IT OVER BY HAND THAN BUT ONE OR TWO BACK IN SO I CAN TURN IT, THE NOISE OR 'knock' COULD BE A LIFTER AS AN ENGINE THAT OLD AND USED HARD COULD WARE THEM, IF IT IS STILL THERE AFTER YOU TIGHTEN ALL BEARINGS (rod and main) I WOULD LOOK THERE, IT IS RATHER NORMAL FOR A DC LIFTERS TO RATTLE AFTER A LOT OF HOURS MAKE SURE THE TAPPTES ARE ADJUSTED PROPER TOM

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Greg

07-25-2004 12:48:05




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 Re: Re: DCTOM - Some DC Info Please in reply to DCTOM, 07-24-2004 18:10:17  
Thanks DCTOM et al.,

I appreciate the information youv'e shared. I do have some additional questions and you'll see that I'm very new at this engine repaior stuff.... This tractor was my grandpa's since 1961. He bought it off a car lot when the old bachelor who had it since new, traded it in on a newer car. For a long time it was the only "horse" working on his three quarter section farm year around: it cleared roads in the winter, cultivated and harrowed, and sprayed the fields inthe summer, and pulled the pull type swather and combine in the fall. It was placed in the garage instead of the the family car every winter.

As far as I know, the following work was done on it: the valves reground about 25 to 30 years ago...one of the front splines seized one year and was replaced, and one of the chains in the transmission was either adjusted on repaired.

It was sold to a fellow who used it for pushing round bales around the farm but for the last few years before I bought it, it was stored in an equipment shed. I tracked it down and bought it from him three summers ago.

The same mechanic that diagnosed the wrist pin checked the mains and said that they were fine.

I did have a couple more questions:

1) Pertaining to the replacement of the pistons, etc., through the hand holes....How do you hone the cylinders or do you replace with the original rings?

2) I appreciate your strategy for tightening bearings.... But should the lower part of the connecting rod slide front to back on the crankshaft? The front two don't. Would it be worth my while to remove a set of shims first and see?

3) Would you replace the entire assembly: piston, wrist pin, and connecting rod, or would your just replace the rod and wrist pin?

4) If after all this I still have a noise, what should I look for with respect to a worn lifter?

Thanks again for the advice...I need to finalize my plan of action before heading west to collect parts/vacation next week.

Greg

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Dale In Tx.

07-24-2004 18:02:41




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 Re: DCTOM - Some DC Info Please in reply to Greg, 07-24-2004 12:02:03  
Hi Greg Not Dc tom but been there done that, you don't have to drop the pan to change the pistons and rods, they will come out the inspetion holes, the bottoms of the sleves are tapered so pistons and rods can be changed without removing the pan. good luck Dale In Tx.



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ted

07-24-2004 17:52:33




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 Re: DCTOM - Some DC Info Please in reply to Greg, 07-24-2004 12:02:03  
If I were you, I'd just bite the bullet and pull her apart. You're going to have to do that anyway to fix the knock, and you might as well find out exactly what the problem is before you spend money on something you may not need. Those DC's come apart pretty easy, all you really need is a tube of silicone if you just want to try it from the bottom end, otherwise a head gasket, and you're in business. Just my 2 cents worth.

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