Operating a 530CK without the backhoe

I recently bought a '64 530CK (188d for those who care) and as you can guess it has quite a few hydraulic leaks. The problem is I get about 1 day a month to either use the tractor or work on it since it is about 20 miles from my home and I have no tools/structure where the tractor is...that's why I bought the tractor; to work on roads and build some pads.

Since a couple of the worst cylinders are the backhoe swing cylinders, I was thinking of separating the hoe from the tractor so I can minimize fluid loss and maybe continue to use the tractor while I remove cylinders and bring them home to rebuild.

My main question is whether or not the tractor will work well moving dirt (making flat building pads) with the backhoe removed. The tires are filled with water and so far traction hasn't been a problem.

Any thoughts? Any reason why I shouldn't remove the backhoe? Anyone want to give a newbie tips on rebuilding/repacking cylinders?

Thanks.

-- Mike

I'm a newbee myself but have realized that by uncoupling the breakaway fittings. The loader and tractor works just fine. Dan

I don't have any chains at all. Nor does it appear that I have any good places to connect them at either end. Near the operators feet there is a piece of 5/8" steel plate that has a circle cut out of it where it looks like a chain could be safely attached. The same plate is missing on the other side.

Can you tell me where the chains should be?

Thanks for the help.

-- Mike

Having been through the repacking of the swing cylinders and a number of others, I think fixing the leak is probably easier than attempting to remove the hoe section and install a counter weight. The most difficult part of the job is breaking free the packing bolt and to make life easy this is what I do. I remove the cyclinder from the housing (can give instructions if necessary) and take it with me to the nearest parts dealer. This kills 2 birds, 1) I pay them $15 to break the packing nut free (I have not yet been successfull in doing this so the $$ is well spent) and 2) I have all the parts / gland nut in my hand to select the correct rebuild kit. All in all, the rebuild may take a 1/2 day if you have never done this before.

One last thing. Is it really necessary to fit a counter-weight if I remove the hoe? Have you ever tried to drive without the hoe? One other problem I have is that the dipper must be leaking too as I have to remember to turn around and pull it in or it starts scraping the ground while I'm trying to move dirt. That's another reason for dropping it. I thought about attaching chains to hold the dipper. In fact, the manual suggests that there might have originally been attachment points. Unfortunately they appear to have been removed or broken.

Thanks for the help.

-- Mike

Sorry for the delay in responding. The rebuild process is not difficult just time consuming and back breaking work. I have rebuild both swing cyclinders and the dipper (crowed) cylinder by myself, but if a friend is available it certianly helps. I think rebuilding the cylinder in place is easier than removal because you do not have to worry about securing it in a vise (make that a large vise) to work on it. You will only loose the hydraulic fluid in the piston and in the supply and return hose, maybe a little over a gallon. I have not used my backhoe without the hoe but I think you would need the counter weight. When lifting rocks I can feel the backhoe tipping foward and this would only increase without the additional 1000+ lbs. And another thought, I have used my hoe a number of times to pull myself out after I have sunk in the mud or soft sand, don't know what I would ahve done without it. Do you have a parts manual? If so and you want to proceed with the rebuild, I can walk you thorugh it. If you don't have a parts manual you need to get one, if only for the exploided views of the parts, (a pictures worth a thousand works).