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Case Tractors Discussion Forum
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BLOCK CRACKS

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BILL

01-18-2004 15:40:33




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HELP, HAVE A 1950 SC CASE THAT HAS CRACKS IN THE BLOCK ON TOP BETWEEN SLEEVES AND ALSO BETWEEN WATER PORTS AND SLEEVES. IS THERE A WAY TO WELD? OR GRIND OUT AND WELD TO SAVE BLOCK? TRACTOR RUNS GREAT BUT THIS PROBLEM. THANKS




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Bill

01-19-2004 05:25:46




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 Re: BLOCK CRACKS in reply to BILL, 01-18-2004 15:40:33  
Thanks walt for the information. I have fixed the side cracks but the ones that are leaking are the ones on top the block. Could they be ground out some and filled with weld as you mentioned? I am getting to the point of getting another block, but want to salvage this if i could. Thanks again



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Walt

01-19-2004 11:10:45




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 Re: Re: BLOCK CRACKS in reply to Bill, 01-19-2004 05:25:46  
When welding anything there is a fusion process meaning there is molten metal at very high temps. Sometimes with this old iron you might find more cracks or make some new ones in ajecent metal that is already right ready to crack. Heating a casting does put stress upon it. A soft approach would be verious epoxys. It sounds a bit lame but it is an approach that incours less risk,expense, and time than more drastic methods. Another chemical you might have some luck with is Permatex ultra coper. It's pretty tough stuff and has the unique ability to be elastic, so it won't crack regardless of the number of times the engine is warmed up or cooled down. And the best part is you don't have much to loose ecept your time and I never count my time for this is an employ of love not profet.

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Walt

01-18-2004 18:19:11




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 Re: BLOCK CRACKS in reply to BILL, 01-18-2004 15:40:33  
I've been there with the same problem. I got a SC case that was froze up and cracked the block in several places. First (and your not going to like this) you must split the tractor and remove the engine to totally disassemble it. Now that you have the bare block the cracks must be "veed" out Then I would attempt to compress the block from side to side to push the cracks between the sleves back together. The force here is from large C clamps. Be careful and use metal pads under the pads of the C clamps. just enough force to hold the block together and maybe to compress the cracks back together. Next comes the skill of welding cast iron, if you don't already have it--then this isn't the place to start because welding an engine block requires top skills. If you have had good sucess in the past I would go with the Henrob torch or at least the cast iron gas welding rods that they sell on their web sight. They really do work the best for cast iror for a varity of reasons. After the welding you may have to take the block to the machine shop due to warpage,, cylinder deck, main bearing alignment, etc.

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