TSX Carburetor cut-away view

I think I will have to disassemble the main jet and try and remove the idle jet, as I suspect a bit of trash in there. I had cleaned every passage with a soft wire and air, and the tank is very clean, but I know that you can always get a bit of grit into those tiny passages.

That said, does anyone have a cut-away view of a TSX carb? Also, does anyone know the design differences between a TSX-112 and TSX 114? I think it's just the side that the choke is on, but I'm hoping I'm not fighting a jet issue.

Thanks as always.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855 // VAC
[email protected]

• F-I-T's webpage.....ALWAYS under construction....

If I'm looking in the timing window at the register mark on the flywheel, using a timing light what should I see at what speed?

Should I time it at idle or wide open?

Sorry, the holidays have made me a bit dull.

Thanks guys...won't be able to work on it till next weekend.

Frank

Looking down on the distributor it turns cw. If the light is flashing right on the TDC line and you rotate the dist cw the light will move up above the line (retard) and the opposite rotation ccw will move the light below the TDC line (advance). I am not making this simple for you but for me so I can get it across without making a mistake.

When you do the initial �points just open� set and then check it at 500 rpm the light should be on the TDC line or tweak it to get it there. Move it to some point below the line if you want to have a preset advance. The total advance from 500 rpm to full speed is listed in the manual as 26 degs. The distributor does not advance until 50 rpm above idle so the total advance is distributor plus whatever advance you preset at 500 rpm.

The manual states that the initial set for the magneto impulse coupling release is 3/16� below the TDC line. I think this is confused with the �points just opening� initial set of a distributor engine in some manuals. I think both of the initial sets here will result in TDC timing on the flywheel at 500 rpm, but I know nothing about magnetos.

I haven�t seen in any Case manual that the timing at idle should be other than TDC. One of my I & T multi model manuals states TC in the spec but does not cover timing otherwise. If you are timing any engine at idle by ear, it will run faster up to a point as the spark is advanced. But faster is not necessarily better since you have to consider the advance curve.

I don�t believe that I have made any mistakes here but someone please correct me if so.

Joe

I think I got it now. At idle ~ 500 RPM, I should have the light "right on the line". I think I may need to look very closely to make out the 26* mark, as I think I'll need to "see" that that 50 yr old distributor is truly advancing correctly at high idle. I'm thinking it is advanced a bit (not much, but a bit) because it does stop a bit at the top while cranking. Of course on 6 volts, good compression does that as well.

I'll print this out and read it on the plane tomorrow.

Thanks Joe

Frank

The factory new distributor with no wear and the proper spring tension on the fly weights is designed to provide that 26 deg advance at full speed.

You (not me anymore) may be able to use a dwell meter and calculate the advance of your distributor. Remember that distributor advance is 1/2 crank advance. You can change one or both springs to alter it if you want to get into it that far.

I have a NOS VAC distributor that I am going to install on my 311B. They are identical except the fly weight springs so I guess I will be relearning how to do it.

Good luck, Joe

I haven't been able to get a decent pix of the whole carb cut away.

Joe

Crap. I am too dumb to figure this out, check the photo in "parts and pieces".

I follow that the idle screw meters air, so in is "richer". I have talked to some other folks who said they have had the experience that the idle screw can sometimes be almost if not completely shut for good idle. Another thinks I have a load jet adjustment issue, or that I might have something down in there. Understand, it really runs well, and all I have to do is to move the throttle slowly to avoid the stumble, but I would like to get it better.

BTW, Joe, I posted a pictue of my air pipe on the message down below.

You preset the advance at 4 BTDC. The distributor does not start advancing until 550 rpm and at 600 rpm advances 1 deg or in your case crank is 6 BTDC.

1) could the burn be starting too early before the piston is over TC? When you open the throttle quickly the mixture tends to lean and ignite faster.

2) is the dist actually advancing at 600 rpm or is it later (slop?)?

I set mine at about 1/16" below the line @ 500 rpm. I think that is about 1 deg.

Joe

I will check that. That could be a rela contributing factor!

Frank

Jeeez!

-Schotte

If, repeat, IF, I take it apart again, I will first just look around, probe with a soft wire, blow it out, then try it again.

If I have to completely remove those brass items, I think I'll first try get all my pretty clear coat off the outside, because it will certainly stink when I heat it with a torch.

Do you think baking in an oven will do the trick? If so, how hot? 350* or so? I have heard to use heat then let it coll completely, and only then try to remove the brass fitting.

Since I seem to idle just fine, but stumble in mid-range transition, I think I might just need to fiddle with the load adjustment. Maybe I'm just not close enough there. I think I will pull a load (a 7,000 pound tractor) and seem how that works.

Frank

Jim:

Well, I soaked it in MEK to remove any varnish, rinsed it with lacquer thinner, then did the blow dry thing. Then I hung it on the electrolysis bath for a week to de-rust it. It sure looked pretty clean. But, you never know.

Frank

Don't think you're the "Lone Ranger"!

Ha!