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DC hydraulics

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Mark

05-19-1999 09:09:30




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Does anyone know if there are differences between the hydraulic valves on a DC built prior to the Eagle hitch and a DC with an Eagle hitch? I am building a 3pt hitch for my 1951 DC using the rock shaft, lift arms, and lift cylinder from an Eagle hitch. I am almost finished but have one question. My hydaulics are set up for double acting cylinders and the Eagle hitch equipped tractors used single acting cylinders. It is not desireable to have down force on a 3 pt. hitch. I was wondering if I could swap the valve spool for the lift valve with one from a late DC, or would I have to change the entire pump/valve assembly?

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Glen

05-21-1999 16:58:03




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 Re: DC hydraulics in reply to Mark, 05-19-1999 09:09:30  
The DC case used a two way cylinder on their three point hitch and it had down pressure on it.
The DC never used a single action cylinder. You better get a service manual from ITT and check out the hydralics for a DC Case tractor



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Nick in Kansas

10-30-2004 15:49:48




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 Re: Re: DC hydraulics in reply to Glen, 05-21-1999 16:58:03  
I have the opposite problem... My Grandpa used 2 single action cylinders on his old DC4, now I am trying to go back to double action cylinders, and I can"t figure out the hose configuration. I have both hoses on the bottom valve, going to the bottom of the reservoir. On the left side, it goes into a 1/2 inch plug, but on the right side, it goes into, if I remeber right, the filter. I don"t think either of these is right.... Can anyone help? Thanks Nick

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Mark

05-24-1999 06:38:45




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 Re: Re: DC hydraulics in reply to Glen, 05-21-1999 16:58:03  
That information came directly from 3 sources: An ITT manual, a genuine Case operators manual that covers all years of the DC model, and a collector/Case salvage yard operator who has operated Case tractors for over 40 years. All factory Eagle hitch equipped tractors used single acting lift cylinders. As the collector said to me when I purchased some parts from him when I started the project "The linkage between the rock-shaft lift arms and the draft arms are not heavy enough to lift the tractor. If you have down pressure to the hitch, that's exactly what the hitch would try to do." As for my problem, I think that I will be OK if I remove the check ball in the outlet port so that the valve would have to be open at all times to raise the hitch. Once the valve is returned to its center position the hitch would be allowed to float. Of course, I will install an orifice in line to slow the lowering of the hitch.

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