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I am currently putting a combine engine 5505951DE into a 52 DC. The back of the engine bolts up fine. The crankshaft fan pulley is larger than standard (about 1 inch) and I had to grind clearance in a couple of places on the front casting in order to install a (longer) fan belt. STUCK ENGINE. Don't know if you have tried this. After the usual soaking, remove the connecting rod caps and try to turn the crankshaft. When the rod caps are still in place, you are pulling on two pistons and pushing on the other two. With the rod caps off (or very loose), you are only putting force against two pistons instead of all four. Turn the crankshaft one direction and you are pushing up on 1 and 4 only. Turn the crankshaft the other direction and you are pushing up on 2 and 3 only. The old saying is a bundle of two wood sticks is easier to break than a bundle of four. With the caps off and the head off, turning the crankshaft may push the two sleeves out but then that gives you greater opportunity to extract the pistons. To attempt to turn the crankshaft, I would rig a handyman jack under the hand crank and rig a strap wrench around the belt pulley. (Of course the hand crank only works in one direction.) A poorman's hefty strap wrench is a long bar, small log chain, and a strong bungie chord. To turn the pulley forward (which aids the hand crank force), 1. Lay the bar on top of the pulley 2. attach one end of the chain to the bar's end at the back of the pulley. 3. Wrap the small chain CCW about 4 to 5 wraps snugly against the pulley surface. 4. Must hold about 20-30 pounds of tension on the second end of the chain with the bungie chord (or rubber strap or a person pulling). You may have to tighten the clutch to utilize the full force of the bar. The bevel gear is pretty strong. The belt pulley is somewhat fragile at the edges. To attempt to turn the engine backwards, rig the strap wrench wrapping the chain in the CW direction.
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