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Case Tractors Discussion Forum

310 air cleaner modificaiton

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[email protected]

08-20-2003 08:39:06

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I would like to convert the original oil bath air cleaner/filer to a "newer" paper type filter. I want to keep the same mounting hardware, location and maybe even the can of the original unit inside the nose, any ideas.

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Lincoln

08-20-2003 20:01:16

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Re: 310 air cleaner modificaiton in reply to [email protected], 08-20-2003 08:39:06

I was thinking of using a foam type filter like the aftermarket ones you sometimes see on motor cycles. They are held on to the back of the motorcycle carb by a hose clamp. I thought if I could find one the same size as the pipe going from the air cleaner to the carb, it would be easy to install.

I haven't got around to doing it yet, so I don't know if it will work. If you beat me to it, let me know.

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C. Amick

08-21-2003 13:56:34

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Re: Re: 310 air cleaner modificaiton in reply to Lincoln, 08-20-2003 20:01:16

I used to see the really small doughnut style air filters on "hot rod" automobiles. If you could find one of those small enough to fit inside the filter canister, you could leave the sediment bowl off and attach the filter using a wire bail with a flat metal plate on the bottom of the filter. This whole idea sounds too complicated. Why can't you just get you a piece of the type of cloth that K&N uses and sandwich it in between the filter housing and sediment bowl?

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Terry

08-21-2003 15:19:05

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Re: Re: Re: 310 air cleaner modificaiton in reply to C. Amick, 08-21-2003 13:56:34

Good question, but for converstion sake, the air cleaner is a vital part of the engine, bad air cleaners and you end up with fine particulate like silica in your engine which is extrememly hard on engines.
This leads me to the question of how does the oil bath fitler work compared to the new filters used today. I think the oil baths system were very good filteration units for the time but the air did not go though the bath to the engine. Filters today take air through the filter to the engine extracting particulates the size of microns as oppposed to maybe larger particulate like micrograms which both can't be seen with the naked eye. I think oil bath systems only took out larger heavy particules like milligram size particulate.
So with that logic good or bad if we are going to imporve the air cleaner filter we would want to put the filter in line to extract very small particualte which would be much much better for your engine allowing it to run better and longer.
As you all know dirty air equals dirty oil. I change the oil in my tractor every month needs it our not becuase it gets so dirty I only use it for general use!
So long story short that is why I am not sure your idea would gain me a lot of improvement, but if it works as good as the current oil bath system it would be a lot less messy and hassel to change?
Terry

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Mike Schotte

08-20-2003 17:55:01

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Re: 310 air cleaner modificaiton in reply to [email protected], 08-20-2003 08:39:06

I'm about to attempt the same type of conversion on a rusted out SC air cleaner I've got.

I'll let you know what I come up with.

-Schotte

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Terry

08-21-2003 11:51:40

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Re: Re: 310 air cleaner modificaiton in reply to Mike Schotte, 08-20-2003 17:55:01

Those are two good ideas, but I am thinking there maybe an after market company like K&N and WIX that can maybe help us out.
Anyone possibly have a engineering/spec drawing of that air cleaner system, I know I am really reaching for that request, but if I could find one it would really help out on my search. A WIX rep said that would make it easier to find a replacement filter or entire system.
Thanks

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Mike Schotte

08-21-2003 12:21:36

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Re: Re: Re: 310 air cleaner modificaiton in reply to Terry, 08-21-2003 11:51:40

Terry,

I have the parts catalog diagrams for the SC oil bath air cleaner- but it doesn't show an exploded diagram of the "innards" of the cleaner body.

I'm guessing this was done for two reasons:

1) The unit was probably supplied to Case by somebody else.

2) They told you never to remove the "steel wool" inside the cleaner. (If they showed how it went in there, curious folks like me would try to reverse the process...)

I've finally got most of the 40 year old mud out (who knew oil and dirt turned into cement??) and I can see the metal work. Getting the top unscrewed took an impact wrench and a LOT of work. Now, all I've got to do is see if I can get the assembly above the baffle to come out of the cannister.

I've got a really small air filter (from those hot rod 1-bbl carburetors and a metal reducing neck adapter. It will fit inside the cannister- I just need to connect a flex hose to the air outlet and make sure the air can get down from the inlet.

-Schotte

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