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Mike Schotte

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Brad Wies

03-16-2003 10:30:10




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Hi Mike, in the link attached below is the grille you painted. How much did the paint cost, how much extra stuff at what ratios did you mix in, the kind of primer and what not. I am starting to restore my VC and was wondering if you could pass that info on!

Thanks!

-Brad Wies

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Eric Rylander

03-16-2003 16:49:52




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 Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Brad Wies, 03-16-2003 10:30:10  
What you need to do it go to an auto body supply store and get your paint- a good, acrylic urethane single stage or polyurethane will be the ticket. That crap you thin with mineral spirts is 40 year old technology synthetic enamel, cheap, but will oxidize quickly when left in the sunlight, and be less resistant to chipping and scratching.

The good stuff isn't cheap, and requires the matiching paint "system" meaning the proper primers used under it, don't use cheap spray can primer or lacquer primer-surfacer under it or it wont bond well. Expect a gallon of sprayable polyurethane with thinner and activator to run in the $200 range. But the shine and long lasting durability will be worth it in the end.

I'm not an auto body man by any means but I have done enough painting on vehicles and machinery to know what's good and what's not.

Think about it, your vintage tractor has a hood and sheet metal like a vintage automobile, and you wouldn't expect to paint your chooped, channeled '49 Merc with paint you got from the hardware store would you?

Eric

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Brad Wies

03-16-2003 19:04:53




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 Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Eric Rylander , 03-16-2003 16:49:52  
How many gallons does a tractor usually take though? I am in High School and money is limited, this will not be a show winner by all means, I just want a durable paint so the thing won't rust out on me, this model is hard to find tin for it.

-Thanks

-Brad Wies



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Eric Rylander

03-16-2003 20:16:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Brad Wies, 03-16-2003 19:04:53  
I would say a gallon would be enough. Keep in mind, if a paint is a 3:1 mix with 3 parts paint and one part activator/hardener you really need 3 quarts of paint and one of activator to make a sprayable gallon. $200- is a median figure, you may find something less and definitely something more. Find an auto body suppy store and check with them, tell them you want a single stage urethane enamel and see what they have to offer, DuPont, PPG and Martin Senyor (Martin-Senyor is distributed by NAPA but is actually manufactured by Sherwin-Williams) all offer good paints of this type that will have good durabilty and gloss retention.

Eric

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Brad Wies

03-16-2003 20:46:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Eric Rylander, 03-16-2003 20:16:13  
Eric, thanks for the help. I guess I just never thought about that by the time you add all the chemicals and what not it would end up being quite a bit. What brand/style paint gun do you use? I am going to use a 30 gallon 6 HP craftsman that has I think 9 CFM at 90 PSI. Thanks again for all the help!

-Brad Wies



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Eric RYlander

03-17-2003 03:27:45




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Brad Wies, 03-16-2003 20:46:07  
That compressor will probably do the job but you may want to pause a minute between spraying to let the air build back up. Any air tool such as a spray gun will have a rating in what they call "SCFM", not sure what the acronym stands for, but compare that to your compressor's rating to determine if it will work for you. And use a good water trap in the line as well.

Eric



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Brad Wies

03-17-2003 18:46:59




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Eric RYlander, 03-17-2003 03:27:45  
Eric, do you have a gun reccomendation? HVLP or Conventional ??

Thanks

-Brad Wies



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Paul f

03-17-2003 05:28:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Eric RYlander, 03-17-2003 03:27:45  
SCFM = Standard Cubic feet per minute



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Mike Schotte

03-16-2003 10:50:31




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 Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Brad Wies, 03-16-2003 10:30:10  
Hi Brad,

First of all- that was a "backyard" paint job, and I don't know much about painting. You might want to ask somebody else for advice if you want a professional job.

A link to my paint codes and the costs I was quoted at the paint store are linked below.

I used a NAPA red oxide "filler" primer out of a spray can for my primer coats. That Evapo-Rust had left bare metal, but it was pitted from rust. I didn't want to make a mess with body filler compound, so I just used the thicker filler primer instead.

As I said- I don't know much about paint. I made the mistake of asking the people in the paint department of Home Labyrinth what type of thinner I should use. They told me regular old paint thinner (mineral spirits). Boy, was THAT the WRONG answer!

The minute that thinner hit the paint, all of the pigment went out of solution and made a big glob of orange at the bottom of my paint cup. Thank God that I didn't add any to the can itself.

After seeking additional advice, I purchased some MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). I used this to thin the paint in a 3 parts paint 1 part thinner ratio. It worked great (but definitely use gloves and a respirator.)

I didn't know anything about hardener, so I didn't use any. Another BIG mistake. The paint stayed soft for a really long time, and would stick to anything you set a painted piece on. Hot days made it even worse. A small gasoline spill while filling my tank also took that paint on the filler neck right back off!

It's been a year since I've last painted, and things appear to have hardened now- although it doesn't take much to scratch the paint. If I had it to do over again, I'd try and use the hardener.

Hope this helps, -Schotte

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Brad Wies

03-16-2003 14:05:30




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 Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Mike Schotte, 03-16-2003 10:50:31  
Mike, thanks for the help. I am just doing a working restoration and I don't really need expensive paint, just looking for quality!

Thanks,

-Brad Wies



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John Saeli

03-16-2003 13:09:51




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 Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to Mike Schotte, 03-16-2003 10:50:31  
Aw, come on Mike; You're much to humble. Looks like a fine paint job to me. John



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Brad Wies

03-16-2003 16:25:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Mike Schotte in reply to John Saeli, 03-16-2003 13:09:51  
Does anyone know a good hardner to use and how much to apply? I want a very tough thick paint as it will be used for light work (pulling wagons, hay racks etc...) and I don't want it to become scratched to heck.

Thanks

-Brad Wies



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