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SC now frying points

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GA. Kern

09-28-2002 19:43:32




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Was having problems with backfiring and no power on throttling up, someone from NC suggested I get a new coil. I replaced the coil and adjusted the valves to .010 clearance (according to Case Manual). I started it up and it ran better than before--for awhile. Then it did some antics--sputtered a bit, then backfired ran a little longer and then killed. It started up again and ran for while, then I couldn't get it started..Looked in the distributor and the points were fried. These I purchased at Fleet Farm for Delco Remy Distributor (which I have). The condenser is also new. Wiring hookup is as before, from the coil + ground to ceramic block on frame and to switch. Negative pole to terminal on outside of distributor. Cannot figure out why points are burning out--This is the second set--the other set burn't out before all the restoration procedures. If anyone has any ideas would appreciate the help. I don't know what to do next--yeah get new points, but then what? I mentioned in another posting that I got arcing from the distributor housing around the clamps when I loosened them to adjust the timing. In by book, I don't think that is supposed to happen.

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Allan

10-05-2002 21:07:23




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 Re: SC now frying points in reply to GA. Kern, 09-28-2002 19:43:32  
By your last post it sounds like it should work. 8 volts is about right. What about the polarity? are you running an alternator with neg ground. If so the power should be connected (through the resistor) to the plus side of the coil and the points to the - side. The reverse is true if your still using positive ground.



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Baggsy-Wy

09-29-2002 18:16:18




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 Re: SC now frying points in reply to GA. Kern, 09-28-2002 19:43:32  
Is this a twelve volt conversion? If so and you have a 6 volt coil you need two resistors installed or you will cook alot of points and coils. There's alot of expertise on this kind of thing over on the Ford N board...a saying over there by a guy named Dell is "There's about 1,000 ways to do a twelve volt conversion, and some of 'em even work!" If it's been cobbled together, you need to lean towards finding an electrical genius or going back to the magneto. I prefer magnetos for ease of use and bulletproofness (is that a word?). One wire out of the generator and that's it. Not as much to worry about...

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GA. Kern

09-29-2002 19:35:31




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 Re: Re: SC now frying points in reply to Baggsy-Wy, 09-29-2002 18:16:18  
Yes, it is a 12 volt conversion--12volt battery.
I assumed when I bought the new coil that I should get a 12 volt coil, not a 6 volt, is that correct? There are no marking visible on the old coil to determine if it is 6 volt or 12 volt. It seems that the 6 volt coils are marked such and the 12's have no markings. I went to the Ford sight on discussion board and there was some discussion there about reducing your voltage to 6 to 9 volts or you will "burn a lot of
of points". Is this done with resistors? You mentioned needing two resistors. Is the ceramic block I referred to a resistor? If I need two how are they connected in the system? This is getting complicated.

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CASEPOWER

09-29-2002 22:27:06




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 Re: Re: Re: SC now frying points in reply to GA. Kern, 09-29-2002 19:35:31  
Here is a some little known facts about points that have been long forgotten about since they don't use them in anything now. 1.If your points are pitted on the rotor side (the side that moves) then you have a under capacity condenser.
2.If your points are pitted on the stationary side then you have a over capacity condenser.
3.If both sides are rough and burned it means the gap in your plugs or distributor terminals are out of proportion.

As a rules of thumb set your points half the gap of your plugs. Make sure that your 12 volt coil says internal resister. If it don't and you don't have a external none of the stuff above will help.
CASEPOWER

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GA. Kern

09-30-2002 14:59:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: SC now frying points in reply to CASEPOWER, 09-29-2002 22:27:06  
Just had replaced the set of points and ran only a few times. The plastic melted and one contact was detached and laying in bottom of distibutor--too hot. Since then checked voltage after the resistor and it reads about 8 volts. Seems like that should be okay. Just put in a new set of points and set point gap at .012, using your formula. It's possible that one of the condenser tabs, being long, was in contact with metal at bottom of distributor. I cut the tabs shorter now. The new coil I installed says it needs a separate resistor, which I have. Anything else I should know before I start her up again?

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Ron Bender

09-30-2002 11:27:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: SC now frying points in reply to CASEPOWER, 09-29-2002 22:27:06  
Another alternative to 12 volts is to use a six volt alternator. Randy Rundle at "5th Avenue Auto Parts" (a specialty shop, not a regular auto parts store) makes new six volt alternators that he supplies to many antique cars that run in the coast to coast "Great American Race" and to movie studios for use in old cars for the movies. I am getting a little tired of my stock 6 volt charging system on my 1950 SC. The next time it gives me grief Randy's going to get a call. He re-manufactures 12 volt Delco units into 6 volt units and they work great on cars. I don't see why they won't be just as good on tractors. Then I can keep all the rest of my electric stuff stock 6 volt.

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