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Case Tractors Discussion Forum
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310 hydraulics misbehaving

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JRT

01-08-2008 21:07:03




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I built a 3-point hitch hay unroller that has a hydraulic cylinder that opens up a set of prongs and closes them back up into the center of 4 X 5 hay rolls and it does a beautiful job of unrolling them. I have been using my little 310 case with remote hydraulics but recently the hydraulic controls have gone haywire. When I hit the control lever to close the prongs, the lift raises. This makes it almost impossible to center the prongs in the roll. It finally got so agravating, I just stopped trying to use it. I hope the problem is something simple. Anyone know what might be wrong here?

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JRT

01-10-2008 20:34:40




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 Re: 310 hydraulics misbehaving in reply to JRT, 01-08-2008 21:07:03  
Thanks guys. This gives me some excellent ideas as to where to start working on it. To do a good job I will have to remove the side panel. Since this is a round nose the side panel will only come off by removing the entire hood from the front. I really like the 300 round noses but I have always hated the fact that to access much of anything you have to remove the entire hood. Since I have about 600 lbs of weights on the front this is going to be a even harder job. Oh well, I might just do the old prop the panel back with a stick trick. This is not a perfect hood anyway so I guess it will be o k .

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Roger (Mi)

01-10-2008 03:47:30




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 Need to replace the lower hydraulic valve body in reply to JRT, 01-08-2008 21:07:03  
The (three point) lower hydraulic valve body has too much wear. The remote hydraulic valve body is stacked on top of the 3 point valve body. Whenever the remote hydraulic valve body on top is activated, an equal pressure is present in the center of the lower valve body. If there is any wear in the lower (three point) spool and valve body, pressure will seep by the valve spool and will cause the three point to go up. If the remote hydraulic valve body is seldom used (less wear), you could swap valve bodies. (top to bottom and bottom to top) Just make sure the hydraulic interlocks are in their original locations. If both valve bodies are often used, you'll need to replace the lower (three point) valve body to correct your problem.

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Joe (Wa)

01-10-2008 11:41:56




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 Re: Need to replace the lower hydraulic valve body in reply to Roger (Mi), 01-10-2008 03:47:30  
Thanks Roger, that is better description.

Assuming the lower control valve spool is centered than it has to be leaking bye to raise the hitch.

I've worked on these valves & interlocks on my tractors and there is quite a lot of teardown to swapping valves & relocating the interlocks.

Some questions:

1. The lower control valve interlock is setup SA so we are presently using only 1/2 the control valve spool for both raise and lower of the hitch?

2. Do you think it would be worth the effort to swap the hitch line and pipe plug on the interlock to use the other end of the spool before getting into a valve swap?

Joe

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Roger (Mi)

01-11-2008 02:01:57




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 The bottom hydraulic valve is totally used in reply to Joe (Wa), 01-10-2008 11:41:56  
Yes, the 3 point lift is a single acting cylinder. However, it uses hydraulic pressure on the other side of the lower valve spool to open the hydraulic interlock. That allows hydraulic oil from the 3 point cylinder to dump back to sump. In other words, both sides of the lower valve are used equally. Your least expensive (assuming the remote valve is seldom used) route for correcting the problem is to try swapping the two valves. Make sure to tighten the valve body bolts from the outside in and no more than 15 lbs. torque. Otherwise, the valve spools will likely bind. Good luck, Roger

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tom stanley

01-09-2008 05:00:05




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 Re: 310 hydraulics misbehaving in reply to JRT, 01-08-2008 21:07:03  
don't know if this is it but had a problem like this on my 600B's the roll pin that ties the linkage to the valve was worn,work out and would get in a bind and move both levers at the same time replaced the roll pins and fixed the problem hope your's is this easy



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Joe (Wa)

01-09-2008 01:01:16




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 Re: 310 hydraulics misbehaving in reply to JRT, 01-08-2008 21:07:03  
Boy that is a tough one. You are using the bottom control for the Eagle hitch and the top control for the double acting cylinder?

First of all think this way.

1. When you move the remote lever, the spool valve closes off the bypass and pressurizes one end of the control valve and on out to the end of the cylinder.

2. When you move the remote lever the other way, the spool valve closes off the bypass and pressurizes the other end of the control valve and on out to the other end of the cylinder.

The by-pass is common to both valves, so when you move the upper control valve (remote) lever, the bottom control valve (eagle) has equal pressure on the same end. The only thing keeping the pressure in the lower valve from going out to raise the hitch is that lower spool is centered and not leaking bye.

If the prong close end of the upper control valve corresponds with the hitch raise end of the lower control valve than it appears that your lower control valve spool is leaking bye or the spool is not centered.

I would disconnect the lower control valve linkage rod right at the lever on the side, move the lever back and forth make sure the spool is moving freely in the valve. Center the spool, you should be able to feel the ball catch in the detent, very little or no slop. Now start up the tractor and check your prong with the linkage disconnected. Maybe you�ll get lucky.

You also have to take into the account the oil pressures will be higher in cold weather not only in the control valves but in the return and more so if your return filter is dirty so even a minor off center spool will cause problems that may not be readily noticeable in the summer.

It�s late and I am tired so may be off-base. Hopefully Roger will come along help out.

Joe

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