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Case Tractors Discussion Forum
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Case 580B TLB Brake issue

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Daniel Robertso

07-07-2007 12:07:59




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Left brake will lock the wheel with just the slightest of pressure applied by the brake pedal. Will not release until tractor is rocked in the opposite direction. Does this while traveling forward or backward. I have the manuals, and studied them. It appears that the brakes are a two stage system in that foot pressure applied to the pedal tightens the band around a drum which in turn spirals toward and applies pressure to a brake disc. I may be wrong in my thinking here. What could be the cause of this locking up, and not releasing until direction of motion is changed?? Major project to repair??

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Daniel Robertson

07-09-2007 19:16:35




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 Re: Case 580B TLB Brake issue in reply to Daniel Robertson, 07-07-2007 12:07:59  
Thanks guys for the replys and words of advice. I will be looking into this brake issue as soon as I get a little free time. Dan Robertson



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Roger (Mi)

07-07-2007 19:32:29




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 Rust! in reply to Daniel Robertson, 07-07-2007 12:07:59  
It�s a Bendix brake system. It consists of a two-part bands (with riveted linings) going around a two-part drum. When the brake pedal is pushed, the band tightens around the drum. As that happens, the two-part drum (with riveted linings on both sides) will expand as the three steel balls roll up ramps inside of the two-part drum. That action forcefully applies the brakes. It�s a good brake system. However, rust can make them stick or render them useless. On most Case models, the floorboards must be removed to service the brakes. Remove the brake adjustment nuts. Remove the bolts/nuts that hold the brake housings onto the transmission case. Removing the brake housings on some backhoe models can be challenging because there is backhoe attachment interference. Either remove the studs in the transmission case using jam nuts or loosen the backhoe supports to get the necessary clearance. Once the housings are removed, look for oil seal leaks. If seepage is evident, the seal/s will need to be replaced. The band that goes around the drum will come off with the brake housing. In the brake housing, there is an anchor stud and two small springs holding the band in place. Knock out the small steel plugs (Yes, the plugs can be reused.) to gain access to the springs. Find a steel rod about 8� long that can fit inside of the springs. Grind a small notch in one end of the rod. That notch will prevent the spring from slipping during removal and installation of the springs. The same tool will work for the two-part drum disassembly and assembly too. Clean out the rust! The brake surfaces where the linings make contact must shine. If not, the brakes will stick or will not work well, or they will chatter. Make sure the internal brake linkages are rust free and lubricated before reassembly. Also, remove any internal rust from the two-part drum. Any badly rusted or stretched springs must be replaced. The brake linings and springs can be purchased at any Case-IH dealer at a fair price. If you don�t have a device for removing and installing rivets, have the dealer or an automotive machine shop do it for you. Before putting the brake housing on the transmission housing, put a bead of sealer around the brake housing contact surface to prevent water from seeping into the brake assembly. When everything is reassembled, adjust the brake pedals to one-inch free travel.

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JGarner

07-09-2007 05:46:55




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 Re: Rust! in reply to Roger (Mi), 07-07-2007 19:32:29  
Word of warni ng on removing the the studs if the 580 is like my 630 and I think it is. The stud holes seem to be drilled all the way through the differential case on my 630 and the bottom 2 are below the oil line. If you take the botttom 2 studs out, you better be prepared with a drain pan that will hold 3-4 gallons.



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