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Case Tractor Inventory Restoration Priority

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Lee Brown

01-28-2007 09:06:57




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Hello everyone! This website, particularly this Case group, has been such a great resource for enthusiasts like me and I appreciate all of the tips and information that you share!

Our father had several Case tractors over the years and got my brother and I hooked. Our youngest brother, though, says that he prefers tractors that start easily and have brakes that work - go figure! Over the past 10 years or so, we've bought a few Cases of our own and would like to restore the couple of more rare ones now and then do the others in a few years. For the most part, assume all of these tractors run (or only need minor engine work and tune-ups) and the sheet metal is mostly there and complete.

Here's the inventory and if you don't mind, please reply as to the order of restoration, in your opinion. You can just use the numbers, if you'd like. Also, "restoration" means a lot of different things to different people, so let's use a scale of 1 (do nothing except normal maintenance) to 3 (paint, decals, and tires), to 5 (total restoration, tearing it down and rebuilding it, all new parts).

1. 731 (Daddy's): 1966, Diesel, WF, Comfort King, 3 pt. hitch

2. 731 (Mine): 1965, Diesel, WF (maybe Schwartz, but not Case), Comfort King, 3 pt. hitch

3. 630: 1961, Gas, NF, Tripl-Range, Eagle Hitch

4. 351: 1957, Gas, NF, Tripl-Range, Eagle Hitch - some sort of a tractor dealer had rigged up a different front piece, so I'll need the front sheet metal, including the round nose and screen.

5. 600B Orchard/Grove: 1958, Gas, Standard Front, says "Case-O-Matic" on the side but also has a hand clutch, no hitch, but drawbar, PTO, 2 remotes. Runs great and the tires are pretty good. The big fenders are decent, but I think it's missing the sheet metal that flares from the side and connects to the rear fender.

6. 600B: 1958 or 59, Gas, WF, COM, Eagle Hitch. Really clean tractor, good sheet metal, low hours.

7. 431: 1965, Diesel, WF, Tripl-Range, 3 pt. hitch. Use it all the time for bushhogging.

8. SC: 1949, Gas, NF, with Hand Clutch and Hydraulic lift (not Eagle Hitch). Not sure what you can do with that type of hydraulic lift arms, though! Real good sheet metal and no rust holes except for the right fender. Might have to find a new fender before restoration.

9. 130: 1965 Lawn Mower

We also have a 630 (Gas, COM) and 2 400B (Gas, COM) for parts to fix up the above, but they are missing engines, etc..

In addition to those items, there is a Case loader on the 731 (#2 above) and the 630 (#3 above) currently. We have 2 other Case front-end loaders in decent shape, so please let us know which tractors would look better with a loader on them and which ones wouldn't.

I started out by trying to collect everything in the "30 series", from the pedal tractor that I got when I was 4 years old to a 1030 like our Grandaddy had before trading it in for a JD 4020 in 1972. If you count the pedal (30), lawn tractor (130), Case 230 baler, and the tractors mentioned above, then we're missing a 530, 830, 930, and 1030. On the way, though, we've found these machines that were built right before the 30 series, so mostly it's a 1957 - 1966 collection!

Thanks for reading this and for any comments and opinions you may have.

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Lee Brown

01-29-2007 05:17:34




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 Re: Case Tractor Inventory Restoration Priority in reply to Lee Brown, 01-28-2007 09:06:57  
Thank you all very much for your time and excellent advice! Having read these comments, and seriously considering the money and time investment, I think I'll work on the 130, 351, and 600B Orchard/Grove as the restored ones (maybe the 630 as well, since that was the first Case tractor that I bought), and then make sure the others are in top mechanical condition for use. I appreciate your suggestions! Thanks, Lee

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John Noname

01-28-2007 18:25:46




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 Re: Case Tractor Inventory Restoration Priority in reply to Lee Brown, 01-28-2007 09:06:57  
I would definitely start with the 351 round nose. Few of these were made and besides its one of my favorite tractors. There are grill parts available. The garden tractor is another to start with. If you need parts try store.casegardentractors.com. Ed has many parts. If you run into parts needs give a holler and someone will give you a hand and point you to a source.



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My 2 Cents

01-28-2007 12:02:27




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 Re: Case Tractor Inventory Restoration Priority in reply to Lee Brown, 01-28-2007 09:06:57  
Lee,
If I were you I would start with the 130 mower.
It should be the cheapest, quickest and easiest to do and you'll find out what it takes to restore a tractor from the ground up before you commit to a big one. It's also a good way to get into showing a tractor with little expense for fuel or trailer.
Save your 430 for last if you use it all the time. Everything else would fall somewhere in between. I enjoy all restored tractors regardless of how rare or popular the tractor may be. I also appreciate a good restoration more than a rush job or El Cheapo investment. I'd rather see a tractor all rusty and beat up in its work clothes than one of those.
I'll presume you want to do a real restoration and not just splash paint over rust and grease.
Start with an easy one and you'll find out what it takes to do it right and you'll be amazed at how far you have to go to do it. After that, you can better decide which tractor to tackle next based on the amount of time and money it will take if you are realistic about what you have to work with.
Maybe enough said, but here's some additional advise for every one before they pull a tractor into the shed to squirt some paint on it.
Take a pen and paper and walk around your tractor and make a list of all the little things that need attention. I'm not talking about overhauls, clutch jobs or transmissions here. I'm presuming you will have ALL internal mechanicals up to snuff already. I'm talking about all the things you need to do before you can even think about pulling tin work off for sanding or blasting.
#1 Leaks...Why would you paint if it's still leaking? Valve cover, oil pan, axle seals, power steering reservoir, lower steering gearbox, pto box, transmission covers, fuel injector, injector lines, gas tanks and sediment bowls, radiator leaks, is the radiator overflow line in place and working, radiator hoses etc, etc. Along with these in mind, also think about your fluids. Now may be the best time for a fluid change in your motor, transmission, rear end, hydraulic system, power steering, radiator. Don't forget all the filters in these systems and your tractor will look best with Flambeau paint on your external spin on filters so you may not want to change them for awhile anyway.
#2 Electrical...Do all the lights work, switches, guages, is the wiring shot and need replaced, does the generator charge, do the tach and mph guages need cables replaced or the drives repaired, do the battery cables need replaced (old cables and old batteries look like crap with a new paint job), etc, etc.
#3 Tinwork... dents, dings, holes drilled that need to be filled, any welding need done, are the fenders rusted through where they attach to the axle, are the fenders all banged up here and there, (what don't look bad at all on a worn tractor again looks like crap with new paint), is the seat suspension all worn out and need rebuilding, #4 Tires and wheels...are the rims rusted bad, do you have power shift wheels that take more time and effort to clean up, are they rusted around the valve stem and need to have tires removed to weld up the hole, does calcium fluid need to be removed before working on them, do you have wheel weights that need to be handled many times to be removed, cleaned, blasted, primed, painted, do the tires match each other in size and wear, do they look too worn for a restored tractor, (once again, old stuff with new paint...)
#5 Overall appearance...do you have a new steering wheel purchased or fix the old one, do seat cushions need replaced, is your tool box beat up beyond repair, are your grill screens straight and not have holes and tears, do you have your hydraulic coupler plugs, pto cover, third arm and chains on the 3 point in place, are latches on the older eagle hitch in good repair, are the CORRECT decals available, have you taken before pictures of your tractor so you know exactly where to place the decals, have you inspected the ball joints on your steering, (new looking tractors sure look funny (like crap) in a tractor parade with the front wheels wobbling side to side), your muffler works fine but is it the original size, shape or color, same with the air intake precleaner, do all of your shifter and hydraulic knobs look weathered, do they need to be repaired, painted or replaced, are the chrome rings holding in the headlights all rusted, same with the strips on the side of the hood, will the metallic looking slide on the draft-o-matic hitch lever need refinished, are your radiator and fuel caps bright and shiny, do you have to replace all your sheet metal screws with new ones to get them bright and shiny, will you need new belts and hoses and hose clamps after everything else looks new.
#6 Last but certainly not least...is Old Abe securely in place between the headlights and on the steering wheel center.
I'm sure there's more I haven't thought of, but you get the idea. If you make a list for each of your tractors, I think you will have a better idea of which one you really want to restore first and it will help you decide how much restoration you want to do on each one. You may even decide that some should be kept original and just cleaned up and some aren't worth restoring at all. (If it's a John Deere). Just kidding :) Most of all, have fun and bring it to the show!!!

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Don Rudolph

01-28-2007 09:44:45




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 Re: Case Tractor Inventory Restoration Priority in reply to Lee Brown, 01-28-2007 09:06:57  
My first comment would be is money an object or not? And my second question is what is your goal? To show off a collection of like new tractors or to view them as an investment that your heirs can sell off or to just have them to play with? Do you enjoy restoration work or do you have more fun just finding them?

My point is it is very hard to give you advice without knowing your individual motivation. That said, I would always work on the more rare machines first as parts are getting harder to come by almost daily. The 600 Orchard, the 351, the 600 gas,the 630, are all low number machines. Then I would work on the tractors that I have a personal history with. Then the more common models with the 49 SC last. In my opinion there is nothing more boring than looking at a row of JD A's or Farmall M's half a mile long and the same could be said for any high production models. If you want to set your self apart at shows or parades have something that isn't seen everyday. I will never again go through a complete restoration. It doesn't make any sense economically. You will only come out ahead on a few models and then only if you are lucky AND actually sell the tractor! You have some very nice models in your collection. Good Luck! Don

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