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Case Tractors Discussion Forum
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580 ck breaks

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mott meeks

11-19-2006 19:12:36




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I have a 1968 580 ck which I have had for some time the tractor has never had good breaks they got a little better after greasing linkage but still not good.




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awh

11-21-2006 07:11:16




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 Re: 580 ck breaks in reply to mott meeks, 11-19-2006 19:12:36  
If you can't find a C-IH dealer go to casece.com to find a construction equipment dealer near you. They also can get other parts for some row crop's under 530ck wheel loader series.



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Roger (Mi)

11-20-2006 04:54:23




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 Re: 580 ck brakes in reply to mott meeks, 11-19-2006 19:12:36  
It�s a Bendix brake system. It consists of a two-part bands (with riveted linings) going around a two-part drum. When the brake pedal is pushed, the band tightens around the drum. As that happens, the two-part drum (with riveted linings on both sides) will expand as the three steel balls roll up ramps inside of the two-part drum. That action forcefully applies the brakes. It�s a good brake system. However, rust can render them useless. On most Case models, the floorboards must be removed to service the brakes. Remove the brake adjustment nuts. Remove the bolts/nuts that hold the brake housings onto the transmission case. Removing the brake housings on some backhoe models can be challenging because the backhoe attachment bracket causes interference. Either remove the studs in the transmission case using jam nuts or loosen the backhoe brackets to get the necessary clearance. Once the housings are removed, look for oil seal leaks. Even though there is a passage to allow oil seepage to flow past the brake inings, sometimes it gets plugged. If seepage is evident, the seal/s will need to be replaced. The band that goes around the drum will come off with the brake housing. In the brake housing, there is an anchor stud and two small springs holding the band in place. Knock out the small steel plugs (Yes, the plugs can be reused.) to gain access to the springs. Find a steel rod about 8� long that can fit inside of the springs. Grind a small notch in one end of the rod. That notch will prevent the spring from slipping during removal and installation of the springs. The same tool will work for the two-part drum disassembly and assembly too. Clean out the rust! The brake surfaces where the linings make contact must shine. If not, the brakes will not work well, or they will chatter. Make sure the internal brake linkages are rust free and lubricated before reassembly. Also, remove any internal rust from the two-part drum. Any badly rusted or stretched springs must be replaced. The brake linings and springs can be purchased at any Case-IH dealer at a fair price. If you don�t have a device for removing and installing rivets, have the dealer or an automotive machine shop do it for you. Before putting the brake housing on the transmission housing, put a bead of sealer around the brake housing contact surface to prevent water from seeping into the brake assembly. When everything is reassembled, adjust the brake pedals to one-inch free travel.

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CH

11-20-2006 03:06:51




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 Re: 580 ck breaks in reply to mott meeks, 11-19-2006 19:12:36  
I have brake parts for these machines if you need any parts,Have shoes,brake pack assembles and housings for many of the 580 models.



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Jim B.

11-19-2006 20:07:19




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 Re: 580 ck breaks in reply to mott meeks, 11-19-2006 19:12:36  
What is your question? If you want to improve the brakes... good luck!!! They are not very good and certainly more of an issue in hilly county. The main failure problem is oil leaking from the tranny case into the brake chamber which must be kept dry. Inspection for oil in chamber is simple and replacement of the seal is quite straight forward. Main repair issue is reassembly without damaging the new seal when sliding over the splined shaft. I made a simple shield over the shaft from a .005" strip of shim stock taped into a sleeve.

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Joseph A Francano III

11-27-2006 15:26:47




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 Re: 580 ck breaks in reply to Jim B., 11-19-2006 20:07:19  
These brakes suck. I have over $400 in mine, and they still make the same horrible grinding after new springs, new plates, and new bearings (balls). I also made sure everything was clean and I resurfaced the area where the friction material hits. No fluid leaking on it either. Just hope you use it on flat surface and the weight of the machine slows you up.



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