Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs

Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Kountry Life
Case Tractors Discussion Forum

Bad bearing in DC where to start

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
36 A

09-10-2006 06:06:08

Report to Moderator

Took my dads DC in a tractor drive last Thursday and it started to howl.Now it feels like the chain seem to have some slack.Any ideas

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]

09-10-2006 11:19:12

Report to Moderator
 Re: Bad bearing in DC where to start in reply to 36 A, 09-10-2006 06:06:08  
After restoring my DC I filled it with new transmission oil and headed for a show 30 miles away. I only got about 9 miles before a transmission bearing seized. It turned the bearing cap black. It was on the upper left shaft. Both sides on this shaft can be serviced fron each cap. For inspection remove each cover one at a time to locate the bad bearing. I could not get a bearing puller on the inside race so I cut it out with an air powered cut off wheel, cutting the race as close to trough as possible 180 degrees apart. I stuffed rags back inside to catch the grindings. With a cold chissel that just set in the groove made by the cut off wheel, I smacked it with a 2 pound hammer and the race split off like a watermellon with no damage to the shaft. To get the bearing back on I used three 1/2" threaded rods screwed deep into the transmission case where the cover plate was fastened and placed a plate with the same hole pattern as the cover plate over the rods held in place by three nuts. You will need two plates 1/2" thick. On the opposite end bolt the second plat up so it just contacts the end of the shaft. If you don't use the second plate you will push the shaft right through the bearing cover. Yup, done that! Make the threaded rods about 16" long. Place a 4 ton or a little larger hydraulic jack between the new bearing and the plate over the threaded rod and press on the new bearing to the end of the shaft. Loosen the jack and place a piece of pipe of some kind that will loosely fit over the shaft but will make full contact with the inner bearing race and apply jack pressure untill the bearing is all the way on. I had to take the cover plate to a machine shop to have the outer race removed. You can tap the new one back in with a hammer using care to get it started straight. Have the cover plate for the belt pulley side drilled out on center and have it treaded for a 3/4" pipe plug. Replace this cover and screw in a 1/2" X 6" or 8" bolt through the bearing cap into the shaft fairly tight. It is already threaded. If your DC is an older model with the hand break on this shaft you just need to screw in a bolt into the shaft. Now you are ready to adjust the thrust for the bearings on this shaft. Put the plate on the side with the new bearing with all its shims and gradually snug it down checking often for correct fit. Grab the bolt you screwed into the shaft and try to wiggle the shaft. Add or remove shims under the cover until the end play is all gone and you feel no binding when you try to turn the bolt forward and back. At that point, the cap should be to the correct bolt torque. Screw out the bolt, put some sealer on the pipe plug and screw it in snug. You are done. This procedure works on either side. Ddo not forget to fish out broken bearing retainers and rollers. I uesd a bar magnet on a long handle for this purpose. I recomend a service manual for the other bearings. On a DC or SC most of the transmission bearings can be changed without removing the top cover. The exception being the clutch shaft and belt pulley bearings that requires checking the gear mesh with a special guage. I have never found a DC or SC with gears out. A bearing replacement will fix most of them. The differential bearings can be serviced from either side too. A long post, but nothing said, nothing learned!!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
36 A

09-10-2006 13:16:25

Report to Moderator
 Re: Bad bearing in DC where to start in reply to L.LAMP, 09-10-2006 11:19:12  
What about the chatter was it the chain, you can feel somthing just a little above idle or slack in it that wasnt there befor.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

09-11-2006 19:18:31

Report to Moderator
 Re: Bad bearing in DC where to start in reply to 36 A, 09-10-2006 13:16:25  
I hear a chattering sound at low speeds and during a hard pull on my DC's and SCc's both. I have considered it the nature of the beasts, the sound of the chain drive. If you did not put new thinner oil in the rear end, the longer you drove it the more it loosened up. The chain could have kind of seized from not being used for a while, gotten gummy. That original oil was some pretty thick stuff.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
todd hamilton

09-10-2006 07:29:45

Report to Moderator
 Re: Bad bearing in DC where to start in reply to 36 A, 09-10-2006 06:06:08  
My SC did that in cold weather - changing the lube cleared it up. I used 85W140 from TSC. However, it did increase the minor seepage around some of the seals.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums

Today's Featured Article - Tractor Implements and Their Use - by Curtis Von Fange. Dad was raised during the depression years of the thirties. As a kid he worked part time on a farm in Kansas doing many of the manual chores. Some of the more successful farmers of that day had a new time saving device called a tractor. It increased the farm productivity and, in general, made life easier because more work could be done with this 'mechanical beast'. My dad dreamed that some day he would have his own tractor with every implement he could get. When he reached his early sixties ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: WANTED, Minneapolis moline G 955 or G 1355 LP or diesel. Call and let me know what you have for sale. [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2021 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy