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CB, I may not like how they look n it gives the Correct Police fits (lol but thats their problem) but an alternaor charges more at lower RPM and is a better device from an engineering perspective. If you go that route most all unless a custom made unit requires negative ground so Id probably convert the tractor over. Assuming a gas tractor with a battery coil distributor ignition you would have to swap coil leads i.e. + gets voltage from the switch while its lil - wires to the distributor. Likewise an ammeter would need its leads swapped or it will read bass ackwards. I will post below a small portion of my Non Charging Troubleshooting Procedure which shows if non charging is a genny or a VR problem, post back if you need the complete procedure in case you decide to repair the genny system instead. Sounds like your genny crapped out, perhaps a brush or bearing problem or maybe more serious If you want instructions on converting to a GM 10 SI 3 wire alternator to work like a one wire, let me know. A one wire device is simpler to wire but some require a higher RPM to initially excite.
TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR OR CUTOUT RELAY PROBLEM
5. a) VOLTAGE REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR's Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isn�t well grounded. b) IF IT�S A CUTOUT RELAY SYSTEM and she charges only if you dead ground the Field but NOT otherwise, its either a bad switch or the switch isn�t well grounded or else the wires bad or open from the Gens Field post up to the switch. INSURE THAT GOOD SWITCH GROUND AND WIRING 6. If she still don�t charge, leave the Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR or Cutout Relays BAT terminal over to its GEN terminal (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, a VR's cutout relay isn�t working correct (maybe points burned/carboned) or a Cutout Relays NOT working or not wired correct. 7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR or Cutout relays functions, so if she still don�t charge, you're left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself. 8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post and have the Field Post dead grounded to frame, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator likely okay). Then, if you next remove the Fields ground and it speeds up some, the Fields probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wiring or battery or grounding problem. The hot battery voltage may be taken off the VR's BAT terminal or the starter post or the battery itself for this test. 9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Check those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT and they cant be worn down too low. SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,the grounds,,,,, insure BAT on VR or Relay is hot,,,,, ,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,, ,,,good tight belt,,,,, ,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,, see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 (half that for 6 volt system) and/or light glow brighter,,,,, ,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,, ,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,, ,,,,,check the connections,,,,, ,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good. John T
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