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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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wheels are stuck

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BobinKY

11-21-2007 12:19:16




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I have finally decided that I need to just replace the rims on my WD because I have been soaking them for weeks with PB blaster, I heated them up with a torch and I used an impact wrench but could not budge the bolts that hold the slide locks. Anybody have anything that worked for them? If I could get the bolts out, I would wirebrush them, use anti-seize and retap the holes to make sure I have all the crud out of the holes. I am fishing here but I really don't know what else to do.

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DARDAN

11-21-2007 23:04:26




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 Re: wheels are stuck in reply to BobinKY, 11-21-2007 12:19:16  
When I had to take mine apart they were so locked up that I had to unbolt them from the wheel plate and beat the 2 bolts out of the clamps and wheel plates. I had to finaly resort to the torch for enough heat to get the cam loose in the clamp bracket. I sand blasted all the rust off all the parts and painted them with aerosol cold galvanizing compound. After the paint cured, I never siezed the cam and bores. Made new retaining rings from an old spring cut apart. What a pain, but had to have them. I'm looking forward to the other side. LOL

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Texas Denny

11-21-2007 17:08:10




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 Re: wheels are stuck in reply to BobinKY, 11-21-2007 12:19:16  
Don't try to turn that eccentric bolt if it is stuck. They do break. When I run up against one of these, I remove all of the bolts that hold the wheel assembly together and drive the hole thing off the center. By driving I mean a large bar encouraged by a 10# sledge. Drive each one a little at a time rotating around the wheel. This can be done. Once the assemblies are off, remove the ring keeper on the back of the eccentric bolt. Use liberal amounts of your favorite penetrant. Using a good punch, drive the pin out of the casting. If it is particularly stubborn, put it in a press. Once the eccentric is out of the casting, clean it thoroughly with sand paper. Do the same thing with the inside of the casting from which you removed the eccentric. once clean, it should easily slide back into place. Remove it one last time and oil or use a light grease. Then replace it and replace the ring keeper.

This is a fair amount of work but is sure fire.

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DiyDave

11-21-2007 16:27:48




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 Re: wheels are stuck in reply to BobinKY, 11-21-2007 12:19:16  
Are you using the impact wrench on the cam bolt, or the 5/8" bolts that hold the whole mechanism to the wheel center? I have found that it is easier to remove the whole mechanisms, one at a time, and work on loosening the cam bolt up in a big vise. What I normally do is to soak the cam bolt with kroil , and tap with a hammer, to set up a vibration, allowing the kroil to penetrate, tapping and spraying every time you walk past it for about a week. Then set up the biggest impact gun you have, start trying to move backwards, then try forwards, alternate with spraying down with kroil. Pretty soon, you'll get it moving a little in each direction. Then hit it a little harder with the impact. These cam bolts are not threaded, they just rotate in the clamp like a bushing. I have got them started moving before, by hammering gently forward to back, then pull the snap ring off the back, and punch the sob out from the back, and hit the bolt with a wire wheel, to remove the rust and corrosion from the calcium. Just don't break off the square tang on the cam bolt, or the head!

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El Toro

11-21-2007 14:45:45




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 Re: wheels are stuck in reply to BobinKY, 11-21-2007 12:19:16  
See if anyone has a one inch air impact. It will either loosen them or wring them off. Allan's suggestion will probably work too. You're going to need a heavy wall socket like one's used with impact wrenches or you will break it. Hal



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Allan In NE

11-21-2007 13:20:02




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 Re: wheels are stuck in reply to BobinKY, 11-21-2007 12:19:16  
Hi Bob,

You're not using enough horsepower.

When moving wheels, I either use the factory wheel wrench or a high-dollar 3/4" breaker bar along with a 10 foot cheater.

The reason I say "high-dollar" is 'cause the cheaper, run-of-the-mill breaker bars will just bend and the cheaper sockets will break when ya get up to those kinds of torques.

Allan



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