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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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d-15 transmission

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Newboytotractors

11-08-2007 01:14:07




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My d-15 series 2 jumps out of first, second and third. I have the tractor split and according to the I T manual, you have to take the final drives and the differential out to be able to get the gears out of the transmission. Looks like major work. I was wondering if there is anybody whos been there done that and maybe knows some shortcuts? or any helpful hints? Thanks in advance for any help




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A/C Boy

11-09-2007 15:28:23




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 Re: d-15 transmission in reply to Newboytotractors, 11-08-2007 01:14:07  
New Boy, You can call Darcy up at Prairie Implements he has been working on these AC'S for 50 years and he can tell you what is wrong. He dont mind to help. He don't do internet. He can help you get parts too. He help me out a lot when I was rebuilding my d-15 series II. His number is 218-338-6156.



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Newboytotractors

11-13-2007 17:43:18




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 I called Darcy in reply to A/C Boy, 11-09-2007 15:28:23  
A/C Boy,
I called Darcy and talked awhile. He educated me a bunch. Between him and Texas Denny, I am a learning something about an A/C transmission.

I am glad you suggested him.
Newboy



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Newboytotractors

11-08-2007 13:31:02




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 Re: d-15 transmission in reply to Newboytotractors, 11-08-2007 01:14:07  
I tried to rock the tractor in gear and it did not pop out. Some of the gears are rounded on the ends but no teeth are broken. Are there any gears that are suppose to be rounded on the ends? becuse they look to me to be made that way. Are the ball detents suppose to be the same size? The one in the middle is a lot bigger then the other ones. Man I am totally lost



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Texas Denny

11-08-2007 06:14:32




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 Re: d-15 transmission in reply to Newboytotractors, 11-08-2007 01:14:07  
If all the gears are doing that, I would expect your problem to be the forks and assembly for shifting. Most shifting issues can be corrected by making new shafts with the ball detents farther apart. Before ripping the transmission out check the condition of the sliders and the mating knobs on the gears. I know it is hard to see the sliders so the best way is to engage them manually (with out moving the tractor). Once in gear, rock the tractor with it in gear. If the knobs on the gear and the mating part in the slider are hopeless, it should pop out of gear. If you can't get it to pop out, new shifting shafts should correct your problem. The detents probably need to be about 0.150" to 0.200" further apart. You need to measure the distance from fully engaged in one direction to fully engaged in the other. Add to this number the clearance in the linkage. Note this sum. Then measure the detent separation on the shaft. The difference between this number and the previous sum is the amount that the detents must be moved farther apart. If both gears on the shaft are trouble, I'd do an even split. If one is good and the other bad, I'd add the spacing all to the end that causes problems.

I don't know if you've checked with AGCO but they may want a fortune for new gears. Plus, if the failure cause is your fork assembly (and it almost always is), eventually the new gears will fail as well.

Where are you located? This shaft can be made with a milling machine and a ball end mill. 1018 steel will last a long time and is reasonably priced and will machine with a standard ball end mill.

The only one of these that I've repaired, I was lucky. I found a used set of the fork assembly that moved the forks 0.070" farther into gear. Installing these forks on my tractor gave me all my gears. So I didn't build the shaft. If I had built it, the spacing would have been increased 0.120" and I only had trouble with 3rd. Yours are probably off more like 0.200". You may be able to find such a shift set, too. But it is not a sure thing. A used one comes from a tractor that was parted out (for a reason).

My email is open. Contact me directly if you are having trouble taking these measurements. I could do the shafts but I don't have the right size ball end mill. The ball end mill would cost about $20 - I think it is a 3/8". Plus material and shipping.

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Jack a

11-08-2007 06:57:57




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 Re: d-15 transmission in reply to Texas Denny, 11-08-2007 06:14:32  
Welded and ground new detents a few times but most 190's I ran into already had that done. I worked on them 20 plus years after the first 190's were out. There was an service update that gave all that info at one time if I remember. Seems to me most of the units I took apart were beyond this point. The collar teeth would be chipped up and chewed up so that usually they needed replacement. Sometimes could get by with little more than thrust washer repacement but still required teardown.

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Texas Denny

11-08-2007 07:12:36




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 Re: d-15 transmission in reply to Jack a, 11-08-2007 06:57:57  
You are right if any of the parts are in bad shape. But sometimes the corners are rounded and none broken but there is plenty of flat surface left for engagement. It is hard to be sure when you can't see the parts.



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Jack a

11-08-2007 05:03:22




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 Re: d-15 transmission in reply to Newboytotractors, 11-08-2007 01:14:07  
No short cuts that I know. I used to get into 190XTs. Snaprings made me swear. Put a block of wood under differential because when removing the carrier brgs it drops and could punch a hole in the housing. Used a heavy bar to bump the main shaft backwards and out. Seems a 190 took about 35 or 40 hours. The main shaft brg has a rolling spec measured with a pull scale on the bench and also has to be set at the correct depth using a special tool and numbers stamped into the main shaft and inside the rear housing. Maybe your not going to replace the main shaft brg. We always did when into it that far but that was when 190's were still a main workhorse.

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