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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum

shims

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mike schoff

08-19-2007 18:01:51

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Hi everyone I wrote a post awhile back and I put in the wrong info. I have a allis c model I got this engine from someone he rebuit the engine new piston and sleeves, reground crank and new bearings main and rod bearings so the prolem is that it would not turn. so I took it apart and the main bearing shims are .010 the bearings .010 under which I have no mike to check the size of the main journal I have to get one the crank will turn easily. with .010shims but when I put a piston in and I plastic gauge it I get .001 but I have to use .010 shim to get to turn freely. the journals are 1.916 and it has .020 bearing in it so does anyone have any idea what could be the problem I checked the dia of rod and cap bolt together with bearing in it and I get 1.916 it almost like the caps and rods are getting in bind ond the side of the crank? this is my first time working on a tractor motor thank you mike

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DARDAN

09-23-2007 01:08:26

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Re: shims in reply to mike schoff, 08-19-2007 18:01:51

In reference to Dick's comment about shimming under the bearing shells: DANGER! Don't forget to open OIL HOLES in shim stock to match oil holes in bearings!!! Seems obvious, but I have bought 3 tractors over the years, that the shim holes had been overlooked. 3 toasted cranks. One had run for years before it self destructed. I'm afraid to buy one "just overhauled". I don't object to the practice in some cases, it just needs to be thourough.

It sounds to me that you might be missing the shim packs. There is a laminated shim that goes between both ends of the bearing caps and the block and the connecting rods. The shims do NOT go between the ends of the bearing shells, just the caps. These old engines had what was known as SEMI-preciesion bearing bores, and some took a little tweeking to get the bearing clearance right.

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Dick L

08-19-2007 18:40:19

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Re: shims in reply to mike schoff, 08-19-2007 18:01:51

Like the blind leading the blind kinda deal. One guess would be as good as another. If torqued down without shims you or the other fella could have crushed the bearings up to where they pinch the crankshaft where the two halves meet. Could be that the .010 under is to small of a bearing. You need to find a mic or someone with one and find out what you are working with.

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tim[in]

08-20-2007 13:07:17

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Re: shims in reply to Dick L, 08-19-2007 18:40:19

How hard is it to mike a crank and do it right? Do you do it all the way across the the bearing goes? or just check a couple of place on each journal?Would like to do my tractors myself if possible in future but dont want to ruin them either.Thanks in advance!

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Dick L

08-20-2007 15:49:39

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Re: shims in reply to tim[in], 08-20-2007 13:07:17

I never trust myself with just one check. A hurry up job usually ends up a do it over job. On a fresh ground crankshaft I just make a 90 degree check or two readings per journal. On a used crankshaft I will check each main journal at three places at the same angle and then do three more checks at 1/3 the way around and then three more checks at another 1/3 from that. On the rods I mic two places on the down side and then two places at 90 degrees. You are checking for out of round on the rods as well as the smallest and largest diameter from one side to the other. If it is more than .001 to .0015 out of round I have it ground. If it mics round and is more than .002 undersized I have it ground if I have the crankshaft out already. When shimed to the .002 at the bottom of the stroke that gives you .004 on the sides. That will work for a long time as long as the crankshaft its self in not out of round.

I probably should not add this but what the hey. When the journal is any more than .002 under the bearing size I put a .001 shim under the bearing insert. That brings the bearing clearance back to spec.and saves the cost of a crankshaft grinding. That is (only) if the crankshaft is (not) out of round.

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