|
Tim those Ignition Ballast Resistors are available at like Tractor Supply or Rural King or Central Tractor etc or auto parts stores, I believe the Napa Echlin Part Number is ECHICR13. They are usually rated somewhere around 1.25 to 1.85 ohms. It goes in series after the ignition switch and before the coil to drop the coil voltage down to 6 volts. The ignition switch can be as simple as a 2 terminal SPST ON/OFF and either a turn key or toggle or push/pull and availabe at about any auto parts store or a tractor outlet as above. Its BAT input terminal would be fed off the load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeetr and its IGN output wire to the ballast and then the ballast wires to the coil. Heres how I wire GM 10 SI 3 wire alternators so they function sort of like a one wire BUT BETTER in my opinion cuz they dont require high RPM to excite and dont cause any trickle battery discharge. The big rear main alternator output terminal goes to the wire that used to be connected to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay. HOWEVER if that wire wasnt already upgraded, when I convert from a Genny to an Alternator, I replace that wire with a 10 Gauge and it runs from the alternators main output up to the LOAD (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter. I also replace/use 10 Gauge from the ammeters other SUPPLY terminal to the battery/starter. The little side number 2F Voltage Sense Terminal gets connected (use a short 14 jumper wire) right up to to and with the big main output terminal mentioned above. For the little 1R side Excitation Terminal, run a 16 or so gauge wire from the ignition switches IGN (which is HOT ONLY when ignition is turned on) terminal and in series with it place a 10 ohm 5 watt current limiting protection resistor (dont really need that much wattage power rating, but they are heavy duty built and easy to wire). Then in the rare event the tractor continues to run cuz of alternator backfeed when the ignition is switched OFF, I add in series a 5 amp 50 PIV minimum Diode. The diode must be wired with negative cathode end to the alternator and positive anode end to the switch. Again, the ratings are not that exact but about any diode over a few amps and 50 volts or so works. Dont forget to change the battery to negative ground and the coil needs to be wired so the negative goes to ground via the distributor points and the positive gets power from the ignition switch and you have to reverse ammeter leads also if you�re just now changing polarities. Good luck Ol John T in Indiana
| 
