My WD Wiring Diagram...Opinions Welcome

This is my wiring diagram on my WD. I have a draw somewhere. Battery goes dead after about three days. The ampmeter shows charging for quite a while after one day. If I pop of the neg cable before leaving it it only shows charging for a couple minutes. It's a new battery. My cheap multimeter shows AC current but I just did all the tests with a higher end fluke and it only shows .2amps and .2 volts AC not mush over the .1 it gets out of the air. With ignition off going negative terminal to ground I see ~4amps and ~4volts on the MM but it continues to trail off. I don't have the patience to let if get to 0 as it start moving in .01 increments around 2.5. My cheap multimeter only show a blip of activity after I let it sit a minute and then show nothing.

I have a couple issue with the way its wired. There's no resister between the #2 on the alt. and the coil. I've heard that will burn up my points and 2 there seem to be two wiring opinions on these and neither of them look like mine. The only thing that throws me is I just had the engine rebuilt and it didn't do this before and nothing has changed on the wiring. Bad alternator? But why can't I show a real draw? Test light pos to negative is bright. Neg to Neg with ignition on is dim and with ignition off is off.

Thanks in advance for any comments. alliswd need not apply. :)

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4526/langanal014hf8.jpg

#1 is "switched excite". #2 is "voltage sense". You have them connected together.

Try it this way instead.

Thanks again!

As to the current drain PERHAPS the alternator MAY have an internal problem or connecting it as I showed you MAY completely cure the "drain" problem.

The internal regulator is designed for the #2 terminal to be at battery voltage at all times and the #1 terminal is supposed to be at "zero" Volts when the ignition switch is "OFF".

If the current drain is still there after changing the connections totally disconnect the alternator and see if the drain goes away. If it does you'll have to replace the alternator or have it repaired. (The alternator's internal regulator MAY have been damaged by voltage "spikes" from the #2 "voltage sense" terminal being connected to the primary wire to the coil OR there may be other regulator/diode problems in the alternator.)

The purpose of the diode in the lead to the #1 terminal is to prevent engine "run-on" with the ignition switch shut off because of current from the alternator's #1 terminal "backfeeding" into the ignition system.

With THAT diode shorted or leaky or missing the problem would be "engine run-on". Once it was stopped there would be NO increased battery drain.

However there are diodes inside the alternator that will drain the battery if bad.

You da man, man. That basically sums it up for me. It's not 1+1=2 but your explanation was more than I hoped for. I had basically pieced most of that together but I think it's clear now. I'll rewire, see how it goes and if I still have the problem I'll replace the alternator. Of course I'll check the resistance on the coil and put in a ballast resistor if necessary.

Thanks again!

Thanks: Sheila