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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointers o

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Wes Will

06-13-2006 09:55:32




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One of my neighbours pretty much gifted me with a 1954? WD45, which was running when he pulled it into the machine shed five or so years back. Of course now it isn't running at all, and I'm working on getting it back into shape, not for a pretty play-toy but to help me clean up about 15 acres which has been allowed to go completely to seed...

Anyway, I'm hitting Tractor Supply or somewhere for a carb kit (it's the stock TSX464), and I'm having to rewire the whole thing due to massive mouse damage to EVERY STINKING PIECE OF WIRE on the whole tractor. (Some fun, huh?)

Hints on the best place for the carb kit would be appreciated, but mainly I need some specifics on how to figure out what has been done to this poor beast's alternator. It has been converted to 12V, and an old truck alternator hung on it, dunno exact model (yet). From the alternator there are two wires, chewed all to heck of course, condemned mouse, coming from the alternator, one of which ended inside the switchbox (there's no key switch on this old beastie, just a toggle switch for the lights and another for the main power, and the original rod-actuated starter switch).

The other alternator wire had a diode soldered onto it, a big 50-ampere job, but it was just dangling and I have no clue exactly where it came from before the rodents took over.

I suspect that both wires end up at positive 12v terminals somewhere, and the diode one is for feedback prevention (I hope it isn't the rectifier for the alternator!), but one way or another it needs to go through the ammeter and I've less than a complete clue how to get this back in working order. All the wiring diagrams I can find that aren't original equipment show a key switch and an accessory connector. Would that just be direct to the battery, which makes sense to me, and the other wire goes through the ammeter and then back to the battery? That's my best guess, but I would sort of expect a load resistor in here somewhere. There is a large wire-wound resistor, about 50 ohms and 10 watts, but it was in the ignition coil energizer circuit, best I can tell.

Anybody got wiring suggestions, for a setup with no key and just the toggle switch for the power? And where shoudl that resistor really go?

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Turner Farms

06-14-2006 10:42:56




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Wes Will, 06-13-2006 09:55:32  
If this is your first Allis just remember that the electrical system is an oddball, with positive ground instead of negative.

Shawn in KS



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Wes Will

06-14-2006 10:59:48




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Turner Farms, 06-14-2006 10:42:56  
It has been converted to negative ground, 12 volts.



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souNdguy

06-13-2006 10:28:45




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Wes Will, 06-13-2006 09:55:32  
It is a standard GM delco 10SI alternator with a built in regulator, then you decide if it is setup for 3 wire.. or 1 wire. 1 wire jobs just use the charge stud.. Yours sounded like the 3 wire job. There will be spade terminals marked 1 and 2. 2 is the voltage sense line anc can be looped down to the charge stud. 1 is the field exciter line.. and had the diode in line with it, and it goes to the ignition side of the toggle or key switch.. that way, the field is excited when the key is on, The diode will have a white line on it.. this goes 'facing' the alternato.. if you hook it up backwards nothing bad happens.. just no charging.

Soundguy

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Clay in MI

06-13-2006 10:03:55




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Wes Will, 06-13-2006 09:55:32  
You might find some info here.



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Wes Will

06-13-2006 12:08:44




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Clay in MI, 06-13-2006 10:03:55  
Ah! A link! Thanks, that"s some info I can use, for this and other things. And thanks to all of you thus far (and later, too), I will try this out tonight and see if the chjarging circuits test out.

(We"ll also see if with some intact wires the coil gives some spark, too. I"ve dived the forum for help with this already, and am going to pick up a set of Autolite 303 plugs to replace the antiques still in the head of this thing. New plug wires last night, new plugs today, clean filter and sediment bowl, air filter has been de-wasp-nested and fresh oil in the sump, I even put a padded cover on that hemorrhoid-killer of a seat. I have high hopes for this beastie. I need a brush hog really badly. A hydraulic or trip loader would be nice, too, but that will have to wait.)

How hard are the hydraulics on this thing going to be to work on? I think there are a couple of leaks in the hose fittings, easy enough to remedy, but is the pump stout enough to do a couple of double-acting cylinders for a front-end loader?

Oh, I have loads more questions, like how hard is the tricycle to wide front conversion, hope you folks are patient. Seems so thus far....

Thanks again, folks.

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Wes Will

06-13-2006 12:08:37




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Clay in MI, 06-13-2006 10:03:55  
Ah! A link! Thanks, that"s some info I can use, for this and other things. And thanks to all of you thus far (and later, too), I will try this out tonight and see if the chjarging circuits test out.

(We"ll also see if with some intact wires the coil gives some spark, too. I"ve dived the forum for help with this already, and am going to pick up a set of Autolite 303 plugs to replace the antiques still in the head of this thing. New plug wires last night, new plugs today, clean filter and sediment bowl, air filter has been de-wasp-nested and fresh oil in the sump, I even put a padded cover on that hemorrhoid-killer of a seat. I have high hopes for this beastie. I need a brush hog really badly. A hydraulic or trip loader would be nice, too, but that will have to wait.)

How hard are the hydraulics on this thing going to be to work on? I think there are a couple of leaks in the hose fittings, easy enough to remedy, but is the pump stout enough to do a couple of double-acting cylinders for a front-end loader?

Oh, I have loads more questions, like how hard is the tricycle to wide front conversion, hope you folks are patient. Seems so thus far....

Thanks again, folks.

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JMS/MN

06-13-2006 16:33:30




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Wes Will, 06-13-2006 12:08:37  
Hydraulic system is high pressure, low volume. Up to 3200 psi. Works fine on a trip loader with single acting lift cylinders, but for an all-hydraulic loader it is best to add a pump and reservoir, driven off the crankshaft- then you have independent hydraulics with plenty of capacity.



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Wes Will

06-14-2006 11:08:22




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to JMS/MN, 06-13-2006 16:33:30  
Thanks for the info. High-pressure, low-flow. Well, that should do for something like a log splitter if I can cobble one together from bits and snips around the place, to begin with. One of those alone will ease a lot of the workload for getting ready for winter.

It's mainly going to haul a brush hog around, and later a cultivator, so a full bucket loader is just pie in the sky right now anyway. Heck, it's all speculation until I get some sparks out of the ignition system.... That and finding a carb rebuild kit is a lot higher on the list than hydraulic anything. Are multi-fuel gas/LP) carbs available from anyone? I am seriously thinking of setting up to use methane, locally produced, for at least part of the fuel for this thing. With the price of go-juice going higher every day, anything I can do to lower consumption of gasoline is probably worth the effort.

I suspect I can find an example or possibly even plans or photos of the added hydraulics from someone who has already done this, out there on the web if I ever get to the point where I need it.

Thanks again.

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JMS/MN

06-14-2006 12:00:55




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to Wes Will, 06-14-2006 11:08:22  
I built a reversed WD about 30 years ago- where the loader mounts facing to the rear, and the controls and differential are reversed so the weight is on the rear drive wheels instead of the front of the tractor. I added a reservoir and front-driven pump. Takes some machine work to fit a shaft on the crankshaft pulley and drive the pump with a double chain coupler, but there is room under the radiator to fit it all in. Then you have hydraulic power whenever the engine is running. Carb rebuild kits are available at AGCO dealers or auto parts stores like NAPA, etc. Regarding a log splitter- it would have tgo hae a cylinder that withstands 3200 psi, or you'll blow the seals out. You could insert a 1500 psi pressure relief valve to protect a lower psi cylinder, but with the low volume it would operate extremely slow. Better then to have a splitter with its own engine- tractor would use more fuel.

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Wes Will

06-15-2006 08:57:02




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 Re: WD45, now that I've got it, I need some pointe in reply to JMS/MN, 06-14-2006 12:00:55  
Re fuel, makes sense, but if the fuel is made from cow/goat/sheep/horse/human/pig crap on site it makes less difference. The pressure difference makes more likely that I won't bother, though.

Thanks for the info on the rear-mount loader, and the front-mount pump setup. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of the front mounted pump, by chance?



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