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T, I assume you have the gennys ARM post wired to the ARM side of that bi polar cutout relay as it looks??? and is that white wire shown at the top of the genny wired permanent from the gennys Field post to the gennys case as it looks????? ?? If so it would ALWAYS be in the high max charge condition which, if the genny worked, could overcharge or boil the batery over. When it was new the gennys Field terminal wired up to the light switch where it got a dead ground for high charge but a resistive ground for low charge, and although it can still work n charge if you permanently dead ground the gennys Field post, it could overcharge as noted above. To see if its a genny or a cutout relay thats causing the NON charge (be sure genny and cutout relay BOTH have a good frame/case ground, insure that first)..... ... with her running dead ground (if its not already??) the gennys field n see if she charges then??? If not, leave the Field dead grounded n momentarily jump by pass around that cutout relay, if it charges when you jump the relay posts together (ARM terminal to BAT terminal), but NOT otherwise, then the cutout relay is baddddd ddd and needs replaced. If the field is dead grounded and the genny and relay BOTH are well grounded and the relay is by passed but she still dont charge, the genny is bad assuming all else (including the ammeter) is good n wired correct n working. It needs a good battery capable of accepting a charge also!!!!! Also, even if the ammeter needle were stuck, so long as its still continuous, place a voltmeter on the battery and it ought to read 6.3 volts sitting but rise to the 6.5 to 7 volt range at wide open. If the battery voltage rises from sitting or idle up to wide open, shes charging even if the ammeter needle is stuck n never moves. If you switch the ignition on not running, the ammeter (if working and not stuck) ought to swing over to - discharge, does it????? If it never moves it could be stuck, although it could still charge so long as the ammeter is still a shunt (appears like a short across its terminals). I would get a voltmeter or a test lamp or hook some lights up to the battery n see if they glow brighter from sitting to wide open, cuz if the battery voltage rises and/or lights glow brighter from sitting to wide open, shes still charging even if the ammeter needle is stuck. If you get the genny fixed, Id be investing in a good original light switch that has the connection terminal for a wire to the Gennys Field post so she high or low charges as it was designed to do. It will still work, but I bet originally that wire from the BAT terminal on the cutout relay wired to the Load (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter versus down there to BAT on the ignition switch. John T
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