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Okay, here we go..... . QUESTION 1. The factory key switch for a D-17 has, two spades for bat. It has one spade, which is only hot when key is turned to start and I know where this wire goes. It has two spades that are hot anytime the key is on, which, one of these must go to the coil. ANSWER. I agree, whichever terminal thats HOT and STAYS HOT anytime the switch is in the ON/RUN orrrrr rrrrr the Start/Crank positions, is what feeds the ignition coil. Its gotta have voltage in BOTH the Start and Run positions you know. Insure the coil feed wire is on a switch terminal thats hot n stays hot anytime in the On or Start positions. QUESTION 2. Now, the alt. post is to be hooked to the + side of the gauge, and the bat. side of the switch gets power from this same point, right? ANSWER: Yes, the alternators output PLUS the switches BAT input MUST BOTH hook to the SAME side of the amp gauge, BUTTTTT NOOOOO OO, on a Neg grounded tractor, normally the alternators output PLUS the switches BAT input terminals would BOTH be wired to the - ammeter terminal, with the other ammeter terminal wiring to the hot ungrounded + battery post, often at the starter terminal. However, Ive seen ammeters labeled funny, so No Warranty on which terminal, other then regardless, the battery source supply is on one side of the ammeter while loads plus the alternator wire to the other side. QUESTION3. The - side of the gauge goes to the bat. + cable as charge input, right? ANSWER. IT DEPENDS IF YOURE AT POS OR NEG GROUND. Buttttt t most alternators (including the GM 10 SI) require Negative ground. No warranty on this, cuz Ive seen ammeters marked different ways BUTTTTT TT usually on a Neg grounded tractor, the ammeters + terminal is the ungrounded + battery SUPPLY feed terminal, while its other - terminal is the LOAD terminal that wires to the alternator PLUS provides voltage for the loads n switches. If the lights or ignition are turned on tractor not running, the ammeter (if wired correct) will swing to - discharge. if its wired bass ackwards it would swing to + charge. To fix that, SIMPLY SWAP WIRES SIDE TO SIDE. QUESTION 4. WHERE and HOW does the power get to the switch this way? ANSWER. An "ideal" ammeter is a short circuit and the voltage is the same on BOTH sides. The switches get power from the ammeter, but over on its non battery Load side. Therefore, the switches BAT input supply terminal should receive their voltage source from the LOAD side of the ammeter, the same place that wires to the alternators main output stud. QUESTION 5. Is the wire to and from the bat. + cable to also be hooked to the bat. spade on the switch? ANSWER Nooooo o The ONLY place the wire to the battery or starter post (main battery voltage feed) should be wired is the hot ungrounded SUPPLY side of the ammeter. That way the ammeter accurately reads the net current flow into the battery (charging) or out of the battery (discharging). DO NOT feed the switches BAT input terminals from the battery/starter, they should receive their voltage off the ammeters load side terminal so it measures their current loads.
QUESTION 6. # 2 spade on alt. can be hooked to alt. post or to the bat. + cable, right?
ANSWER Right, but its a lil more accurate if wired to the battery QUESTION 7. NOW, just where does # 1 spade go at ON THE SWITCH? ANSWER Run a 14 or 16 gauge wire off the switches IGN output terminal (same terminal that feeds the coil) with a series 10 ohm current limiting protection resistor to the lil No. 1 side terminal on the alternator to excite the field. Thennnnn nnn if she runs on after the ignition is switched off, add a diode (wired in correct polarity) to prevent backfeeding the ignition QUESTION 8. One wire goes to the coil from the key switch. One wire goes to the starter switch from the key switch. One wire from the key switch goes to the bat. + cable. One wire goes to the light switch from the key switch. One wire comes from the amp gauge to the key switch. NOTE I disagree/question that wire from the switch going to the battery, any switches BAT input terminals should be fed from the ammeters load terminal (see above) QUESTION 9. Is the wire to the bat. + cable from the - side of the gauge to be hooked together and put on the same bat. spade of the key switch which already has a wire on it from the + side of the gauge? ANSWER. Sorry, you lost me. REMEMBER THIS The ammeters Supply terminal should be wired to the battery/starter, while its other Load terminal is what feeds all switches their voltage PLUS wires to the alternators output stud PERIOD.....
I know this makes me sound dumb, but I've done it the way it seems that all of you have said and it still isn't charging. Yes the alt. and gauge are good. I think it is to do with the power to the switch and the charge to and out of the switch. Thanks again for your help.
I agree, if the alternators output isnt wired to the SAME side of the ammeter the lights n switches are wired to, and the other side of the ammeter isnt wired ONLY to the battery, the ammeters NOT gonna show net current into (charging) or out of (discharging) the battery PERIOD John T Nordhoff in Indiana, retired electrical engineer
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