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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Broken Manifold Stud

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ilrocketboy

12-30-2005 06:59:49




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While removing the manifold on our WD 45 a while back, we snapped one of the bolts off, and later snapped the stud off at the block trying to remove it. Now we are left with a stud stuck in the block, and flush with it. The tractor does runfine without that one stud (ran it for the first time last night), but we'd like to get it out, and a new one in. My questions is what would you guys do? We have talked about drilling it, using a screw extractor, and just leaving it. Any ideas?

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Henry J

12-31-2005 05:54:12




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
Just did one last night in another location. Put a nut on top of it and used the el cheapo wire welder and welded it on and filled the nut until it was cherry red. Let it cool naturally, but that did not take long at 36 degrees in the barn.

It is amazing, I rocked the stud back and forth a little put on some kryoil and spun her right out. Walla



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JMS/MN

12-30-2005 16:41:49




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
Other ideas posted do work, sometimes, as well as what I do. Try whatever works- sooner or later, you try them all! I use heat- not a mickey-mouse propane torch- I mean oxy/acet torch. Heat the head, not the bolt- the bolt warms up right away, but you need to put serious heat to the cast head. Get it red hot around the stud. As it cools, apply candle wax. It flows between the threads. If the stud is broken off flush, weld the nut, or washer- then the nut, to the bolt. Likely to unscrew then. Tried them all that you see here- never lost a head yet- always got the stud out. Use Never-Sieze on install with the new studs- still available at your dealer.

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Maark

12-30-2005 12:17:05




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
I've used the welded washer and nut routine many times. Works great and relatively easy way to get a broken stud out. Use a wire welder if you have. The weld won't stick to the cast iron without a special rod.



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John T

12-30-2005 09:55:22




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
Rocket, I hace had some luck by FIRST welding a flat washer down over the broken stud as it keeps from welding to the head, and then welding a nut to the washer. When attempting to extract use shocking hammer blows out on the end of the wrench to shock n vibrate things loose as opposed any hard dead pull. If she ever starts to turn, slowlyyyyy yyy milk her out a lil at a time by screwing in n out n in n out a lil at a time. If that fails then the hard part is to file things down smooth n even to get a center dot punch in the dead center of the stud, then start with a small pilot drill bit size and work up to larger bit diameters till shes drilled out. I never had much luck with EZ outs or screw extractors in those engine head n block situations.

John T

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ilrocketboy

12-30-2005 10:15:14




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to John T, 12-30-2005 09:55:22  
I see what you're saying, and that sounds like it would work well. May just be what happens.

Thanks!



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Whiskers1949

12-30-2005 09:25:03




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
I have a set of screw extractors that my dad bought more than 30 years ago. They are square and tapered. You drill a hole in the bolt of the right size, drive the extractor in with a hammer, turn out the bolt with a crescent wrench. They work great and they will not break like those left handed spiral things sometimes do. The left handed drill bit works..... but only if you can find them, or can wait to get one. I like the idea of welding a nut on too.

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ilrocketboy

12-30-2005 10:06:47




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to Whiskers1949, 12-30-2005 09:25:03  
Im only familiar with the kind of screw extractor Craftsman sells today, which I would described as a left handed spiraly thing, but they work in the same way that you described your set. Since the bolt is flush with the block, the only nut welding that could be done would be to the cast of the head, not a piece of the stud.

Well, I figure we can try an extractor first, if that doesnt work then we can drill it farther out as previously suggested. I would llike to heat it when using the extractor, but heating that then will cancel out the option of drilling it out larger.

Any suggestions on how how we can get the head area with a torch for removal without damaging things?

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Dale(MO)

12-31-2005 05:19:33




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 10:06:47  
If you use the spiral extractor, be careful. If you break it off in the bolt, the extractor is very hard. You cannot drill out the extractor. The tapered square extractors are pretty good, be careful with them, too. I have seen them twisted off, also. Good Luck,

Dale(MO)



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Dale(MO)

12-30-2005 07:19:50




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
Left-handed drill is the answer. A little smaller than the hole, as close to center as possible, as straight as possible. Sometimes, the action of the drill will cause the bolt to back itself out (but don"t count on that to happen all the time), elsewise just drill through and use a chisel or small punch - and lots of patience - to remove whats left of the old bolt. You should then run a tap through to clean up the threads. I always try to replace exhaust bolts with stainless steel when possible, and always use never-seize on the threads. Sounds easy, but it really isn"t that tough - just takes patience and practice.

Good luck,
Dale(MO)

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todinbenson

12-30-2005 07:09:36




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 Re: Broken Manifold Stud in reply to ilrocketboy, 12-30-2005 06:59:49  
Did this once. Placed a nut over the bolt and welded inside of nut to broken bolt. Make sure inside dia. of nut is smaller than bolt. Not sure if this is proper or will work in your situation but it is a thought. Drill would probably be your best bet.



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