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If you do want to use an old high pressure pump, they aren't too difficult to find by pulling the whole tail assembly PTO and all from a scrap yard machine. The problem is then getting a ram suitable. I got around this by grabbing a single CA ram and using it slightly offset from center where it wouldn't conflict with top link and any driveshaft you might want to use on an implement. I welded two 1/2x3 steel stock in to nearly an angle iron shape (I used a greater than 45 degree angle on the bars), then put two ears on each side to hold aftermarket N-series ford lift arms. This assembly bolts to the rear of the inner finals. Then ears to hold the CA Ram bottom offset near the right lift arm ears. That took care of the bottom end. For the top I used the mounting from where the standard loops came off the rear guard mounts. I made those out of heavy tube with brass bushing stock and put a zirc on each side. The one inch bar stock then went across that and it also had bars running out so I could change where the top mount for standard implement jacks could mount. This let me have 3 different mount points for a range in lift height. This part is very touchy because you bind up the jacks on some settings depend on how open or closed you run the implement jacks. If I recall, I had to experiment a bit till I had it right. Then I had to weld an arm on the cross bar that held the top part of the CA Ram, this would spin the rod and lift the jacks which would lift the lower arm. The top link bracket runs below this assembly but still bolts to the guard mounts. I ran into problems first go round with the top link bar because it would tend to bend in the middle (BTW, I didn't mention that I had to weld ears to actually hold the top link). I did one on a C and also braces from the lower bar up to the top link bar which really strengthened everything. I didn't do that on the B because it didn't ever seem to be stressed that much. Most implements exerting that much downward pressure are probably too heavy for the B or C in the first place. A picture would replace a million words in the above but I don't have digital that works, hopefully one of the others will post a picture of theirs. Anyway, it worked very well and didn't cost even a 75 bucks to put together. It did take time but it was fun. You may find the hitch you build will make you want to change other things on the machine. For example, my back blade hooks up and works great, but the machine needs more weight to really take advantage of it under some conditions. My bush hog is just flat to heavy for the tractor and the PTO needs the D-14 to knock down what I usually have growing though it will mount right up to the B and technically will work. If you get a 3-point plow, smaller is better on the B. Just need common sense on the weight and power needs of what you try to use on a Cat 1 hitch on the B. If you look in the Articles to the left, there is an article called new hitches for old tractors that has some stuff and I noticed there is a 3 point specs in that column too. In the case of the B, you can ignore the HP rating they show on the Cat 0 issue because the B should use a Cat 1 spec. Most Cat 0 PTO implements won't be appropriate for a 540 PTO whereas all the Cat 1 are.
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