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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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B engine bearings

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wdtom

11-20-2005 16:53:00




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While out getting wood with my brother and our B the engine started to knock, within 100 yards in third gear it went from "what is that rattleing" to "I don't want to run this any more until we figure out what is making that noise". We ended up with the engine out of it and on an engine stand with the pan off. Could see nothing. Next day we started to pull bearing caps and inspect. Found a rod bearing that was blown. The surface of the front half of the upper shell had major portions of the surface gone. The rear half had cracks running back into it and some of the surface was already gone. This tractor has always been a good running strong tractor with good oil pressure. The former and original owner mostly used it for snowplowing and was the original owner. We have owned it for maybe 15 years, always kept good oil in it. It doesn't use any oil and has always seemed like an engine that would be still running strong when we are burried. The crank miked out ok on the rods, like new infact, except for the problem bearing which was .0008" out of round. The mains were .004 undersize. Will be grinding crank and installing new bearings, but what would cause such a failure?

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Jeff Clark

11-27-2005 16:59:40




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to wdtom, 11-20-2005 16:53:00  
Just this afternoon I put my B's engine on the stand for exactly the same problem. What are reasonable tolerances on the main and rod bearing? It's been awhile since I have overhauled anything, is Plasti-gauge still around?



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Dick L

11-21-2005 07:13:03




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to wdtom, 11-20-2005 16:53:00  
As stated below, this would be a good time to check every thing out inside the engine. I would be a idea to remove the pistons and remove and place the top rings down it their correct hole and check the end gap of the ring. After the head is removed and with the engine upside down the cam slides out without any resistant. Remove and check the oil pump also would be a good idea at this point.

third party image

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In the picture below, the pump head or cover is how you want yours to look. The picture on the right is a picture of a pump head that will by pass oil needed to flow down the center of the cam to oil rods.

third party image

third party image

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37WC

11-20-2005 21:00:14




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to wdtom, 11-20-2005 16:53:00  
If you have the engine on the stand, this would be a good time to look at everything including the cam and bearings and then replace what is needed and reface the crank. Good luck
37WC



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Jerry Coulter

11-20-2005 17:28:01




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to wdtom, 11-20-2005 16:53:00  
I have one just like it in my shed waiting for a tear down. The B-C engine does not have oil pressure to the crank, rather get squirts from holes in the camshaft. The problem is usually caused by a spun camshaft bearing, then it doesn't squirt that rod.



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wdtom

11-20-2005 17:38:59




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to Jerry Coulter, 11-20-2005 17:28:01  
Now you have me thinking.....Do we pull the cam??? Prpbably.



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wdtom

11-20-2005 17:42:27




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to wdtom, 11-20-2005 17:38:59  
Jerry, I am thinking still, and kwouldn't a spun cam bearing prevent oil from getting to a main bearing, but still allow it to spuirt out of the holes in the cam into the rod?? Will probably check with air to see if oil/air comes out of all main bearing oil holes equally when gear end of cam is presurized with air. You got me thinking though.



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Jerry Coulter

11-21-2005 08:13:24




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 Re: B engine bearings in reply to wdtom, 11-20-2005 17:42:27  
According to the diagram in my factory service manual, oil to the mains is pressure fed from the cam through passages in the block. The crank is not drilled to provide oil to the rod journals from the mains.

If you replace the cam bearings, best to go standard rather than undersize. We were troubled with undersize cam bearings' tendency to spin on our overhaul jobs.



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