Generator

Bottom line of all that is still I have no clue how to tell definitively when the tag is gone but there should be some difference in looking at the guts (though slight in a tractor generator). I never thought to look at how they engineered the target amperage/voltage/lifespan but it's worth understanding. It's a matter of what amperage is produced for what voltage at what RPM to handle an expected load and still last long enough (and I spose be manufactured cheaply too). It would be interesting if indeed there were NO engineering difference when output requirements are so low to start with.

On a wd45 gas, original should be 6. They only used 12 volt systems when the requirements were high. Every gas machine came as a 6 almost to the end of the 50s. Diesels were different. There were 12 volt systems produced way back, my HD-7W, built during WWII came as 12 volt but the cranking requirements were very different on a big old detroit diesel and it uses a boat battery. Very industrial / military application to skirt the dreaded Cat Pony style starting. The question to put to the forum if accurate restoration is desired, would be, "Was a WD-45 gas ever produced as a 12-volt?". My bet for the gas 45, the answer is no because in 1957, the D14 was released as a 6-volt and the requirements were pretty much identical and because the 45 gas was originally released as 6 volt. The 45D WAS 12 but of course there was a big difference in cranking requirement and recovery on the 6-cylinder diesel.

Forget originality and maybe it's easier to just regulate the thing at the voltage that will charge the battery and wiring you choose to put in it, it sounds like this is what everyone else rightly states is the good answer and they've said how (get the right VR). If it's rated for a 6 volt system the only thing you'd notice is a hotter running because it's producing a rate higher than they wanted it to. If you are looking for originality, you are probably looking at setting it up to limit at just over 6 volts. Do like they said, go in to Napa with your VR and see if they can match it up in the parts books and you know at least whether the previous owner was running at 12 or 6. If the battery you walk out with is 6 volt, be sure your cables are rated to handle it and they will sell you some if not.

John T

I believe to get the voltage to 12 volt, the current to the field has to double. This extra current ought to put a strain on the contacts of the regulator. I expect that the amount of wire in the field is adjusted (increased) so that the current is reduced on a 12 volt generator.

I've also used a 6 volt regulator (positive ground) to control a 12 volt alternator (negative ground). Had to make a modification for that one.

I don't see why I can't modify that regulator I was struggling with on the Ford 9N. Remember, the regulator was a field grounding regulator and the generator was looking for a voltage source. It should just be breaking the ground connection on that resistor on the back side of the regulator and tying it to the voltage source on the generator side of the cutoff relay. Does this make sense? I'm going to the generator side of the regulator so that current isn't drawn by the field when the engine isn't running.

I agree to get 12 volts from a 6 volt genny by using a 12 volt VR the Field current has to be increased, and the reason why I think theres not too much of a problem is since youre only dealing with a few amps in the first place, even if doubled theres no dramatic heat increase and the field windings DC voltage withstand is way way above 6 or even 12 volts anyway. It seems the commutator bar spacing may be different on a standard 6 n 12 volt genny armature??? but it still works regardless. We may have to ask Ken of Kenneths Classic Generator down in Texas to provide the fine details???

Regarding a Class B (supplies Voltage to a grounded Field) versus a Class A (supplies a ground for Field) Voltage Regulator substitution, I reckon so long as it were rewired so you use the relay action to supply the contrary, it will work in theory HOWEVER that relay action and cycling and how much resistance it uses or switches may or may not still do the proper job when its modified?? Theres field current modulation (relay action)going on to achieve a more precise regulation (net effectice field current over time) besides just switching in a bias or a dead ground as an old fellow engineering buddy Gerald instructed me on some time back. I guess its one of those things to just try n see and add or subtract ballast if necessary cuz Im not in the mood to work out all the engineering details. I AGREE IN THEORY IT CAN BE MADE TO WORK but thats all the further Im willin to stick my neck out yet lol

As I originally posted, the DC VR cant be used as an alternator regulating device absent modification, so I have a question for ya if you did that: Did you use the Field current control relay to cycle or ballast the current into the rotor via the slip rings or did you modify n regulate the AC Stator output or the rectification or what?????

The good SoundGuy seems to have a good grasp on the Ford Class B systems, anxious to get any comments from him.

I like to tinker n jury rig myself, prob why we usually thuink similar on these sparky projects lol

Before I forget, I didnt see nor did my manual provide much insight into where to add n fill n check the oil in my AC D 15 as far as the power steering????? I take it the hydraulic pump n pedestal n gears all work and are lubed by the same common fluid?? but Im unsure where to check or drain or add it????

John T

I can't remember every thing I learn.

Regarding D-15 Power Steering. The manual says that the system for a D-15 and D-17 diesel of Series I and II is the same. I've never checked a D-15 to see if this is correct. On my D-17, you remove the screen from the front of the radiator. Behind the screen there is a stand pipe that looks like a vent tube. You unscrew this vent tube and remove it. With it off, you can look at the steering sector inside the casting. You are to add 30 weight non detergent oil sufficient to cover up the steering sector.

I don't think there is any way to drain it other than removing tubing and even then you can't get it all. Here is where my knowledge ends. The D-15 may not have the stand tube. It may have a pipe plug or something on top of the casting. When you remove either a pipe or a plug, you can see inside the case of the casting and see the sector. I don't think you can see the worm or the rack that is pushed by the cylinder.

Let me know if you find the fill. It is behind the screen and in front of the radiator. The book says you fill them the same so there must be a plug or stand pipe or something. Mine is about 3" in front of the radiator and about centered on the tractor.

The hydraulic system is seperate from power steering on a D-17 for sure. It should be the same on a D-15 if the book is right and I think it is. The hydraulics on a D-14 is separate from steering and I think the hydraulics on the D-15 and D-14 are the same.

Best to spring the 25$ on the correct B-circuit regulator...

Soundguy