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Carb questions for the carb illiterate

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farmerwannabe

10-20-2005 05:28:19




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Well...I was tinkering with the AC B yesterday and forgot to shut the fuel petcock off. After class, I went to get the battery to charge back up (about 8 or so hours later) and found gas ALL over the floor. It was dripping from the choke bushing area and a lot from the tube coming out of the engine below the carb.

First, what IS that tube for?

Second, what should I do to get the carb to not leak when I forget to shut the fuel off? I was told the carb was rebuilt right before I bought the B, but obviously there"s something wrong here. I don"t know much about carbs, and even less about checking/adjusting/rebuilding one, but I think I"m going to have to try, unless someone out there does it fairly cheaply. Any suggestions/help?

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Steve in N.J.

10-21-2005 04:08:14




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
Your gas delema could be a sinking float or just a simple tiny piece of dirt stuck under the needle valve. Either would do the same problem. As for fuel in the engine, as it was mentioned, fuel doesn't run uphill into the engine on an updraft design system, so you should be okay in the crankcase department. Downdraft system, most definetely! I would drop the air filter oil cup just to be sure fuel didn't run into that area. Rod is probably right on with the gas dripping off the coolant tube. I had the same problem a couple years ago with my B. The floats sunk gas dripped out of the carb and right down on the edge of the coolant tube making the tube look like it was leaking coolant, but it was fuel. We build the correct cables and have carb kits and rebuilding services if needed. Be happy to help ya out...
Steve@B&B

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Dick L

10-21-2005 13:41:15




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 SORRY GUYS in reply to Steve in N.J., 10-21-2005 04:08:14  
Liquid seeks its own level. The gas tank is above the valve heads. I have found gas in the crank case several times from a leaking float valve. Happened to one of my Allis C"s and my Oliver 1650 as well as one of my Oliver 1850"s. If the flow is greater than the weep hole in the bottom of the carb or the weep hole is plugged with crud, the gas will fill the breather, manifold and run into the engine thru on of the open valves and down around the rings. That is if there is enough gas in the tank.

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Sid

10-21-2005 19:24:51




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 Re: SORRY GUYS in reply to Dick L, 10-21-2005 13:41:15  
Well Dick L. I guess I should thought a little more about it before I replied last night. I have never seen or heard of that happening. But I can plainly see how it can happen now.



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CHALMERSBOB

10-20-2005 19:25:45




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
USE THE BRAIDED GROUND WIRE, ONLY EVER SAW THEM IN ONE SIZE.
IF GAS IS DRIPPING OUT OF CARB, DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT GETTING INTO THE ENGINE AS YOU ARE DEALING WITH A UPDRAFT CARB. GAS DOESN'T PROPEL ITSELF UP HILL. MIGHT WANT TO CHECK THE AIR FILTER CUP, CAN GET GAS INTO IT. TAP ON CARB, FLOAT VALVE IS STUCK.
BOB



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Sid

10-20-2005 18:15:10




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
I agree with what Rod (NH) said about the "tube" being the pet cock that drains the coolant from the engine block. What you more than likely saw was gas dripping on it not out of it. Some times a light tap on the carbeurator will cause a sticky needle to fall in place and stop the leaking. I have seen ones that have set for sometime stick like that until they have been run a little bit. It is possible that you need to replace or clean the tip of the needle. It also is possible that you have a bad float and it will need repaired or replaced. And it is also possible that all that is needed is to adjust the float. As for some of the other replies lets think about them for a minute. The carb is an up draft. It hangs on the bottom of the manifold. That means gas would have to run straight up hill to get inside the engine. The only way I can see for gas to get inside the engine would be for you to try and start it and suck the gas up through the manifold. I honestly don't see a concern about gas inside the engine. As I don't see how it could get there the first place.

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Rod (NH)

10-20-2005 11:39:03




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
That tube is the coolant drain for the engine block. You certainly should not have any gasoline dripping out of it. I suspect what you notice is just gas dripping down from the the carburetor onto the tube, dropping off it and appearing to come out of it.

third party image Rod

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souNdguy

10-20-2005 11:28:44




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
If you had gas dripping out of the engine breather.. time to change your oil.. as you now should have a super squeaky clean crankcase.

I'd also pull the plugs and put a teaspoon of crankcase oil in them then bump the engine over a couple revs... Gas got down past the cys and into the crankcase.. washing the cyls down, if gas was coming out the breather.

Next..a s others said.. get that flaot/valve fixed.

As for the flat braid.. I look at it as a surface area of the connector issue. The flat braids have a flat crimped tab they hook up with.. more contact between the surface of the braid and the surface of the connector.. the round cables have only the outer portion of the copper in contact with the connector.. the inner portion is 'conducting thru' to get to the connector.. whereas the flat braid, is virtually in contact with the connector all around.

Soundguy

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Butch(OH)

10-20-2005 06:37:12




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
For reasons I cannot explain the un-insulated braided style ground cables will spin the starter faster than the same gauge round insulated ones. They are availble at TSC, clean the connections just as you did the for the starter cable. While you are at TSC pick up a rebild kit for your carb. There should be a tag on the carb with several numbers. Write them all down and one of them will match the numbers listsed on the kits. If TSC is out of stock NAPA sells a Zenith kit that is more of a universal kit. You must be very carefull when using it that you use the correct gaskets as several will fit the bolt pattern but the fuel and air holes are in the wrong places. The carb is not difficult to do if you have a clean bench and pay attention to what you are doing. Lay the parts out in a line as you dissasemble, Hint, take pics with a digital camera if memory is short like mine. Blow out passages with air. Make sure float does not have holes by submurging it in a glass of hot water and watching for air bubbles. If the float setting instructions confuse you just hold the upper half upside down and assemble the needle/seat and float. Then set it so the float arm is paralell with the gasket surface or reasonably close. The adjustment is not as critical as some make of it.

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farmerwannabe

10-20-2005 05:32:15




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:28:19  
Oops..forgot to mention I'm in the process of making a new negative cable out of 0 or 00 cable, bought a new starter switch, and took the starter off and cleaned the ground connections. Thanks for the ideas about getting the starter to spin up more reliably. Any hints on the best way to make the negative cable? I'm going to get the cable and ends tomorrow. Should I use this heavy a gauge for the positive ground as well, or is this not necessary? Thanks again for the help.

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farmerwannabe

10-20-2005 08:01:55




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 Thanks in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:32:15  
Thanks for the advice. I think I"ll go with the OO cable after all. Sounds like my best bet. Is the braided stuff gauged the same as the round stuff, or is any braided from TSC going to work?

Thanks again..but what IS the tube coming from out of the engine just behind/below the carb?



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Kent of SW MO

10-20-2005 06:49:20




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:32:15  
A note on cable ends for the heavier wire. Most of the time when you find the cable end that fit the wire the hole will be to big for the stud you wish to boltit to. I have for years made my own cable ends from copper tubing. Cut a short piece of tubing. You might want to flare it first as this will make the wire go in easier. Then flaten it with a hammer. Next, if you have solder, solder the wire and the tubing. Then drill the size of hole you need. Be careful when drilling copper as it is soft and will grab.

Kent

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BCnT

10-20-2005 05:49:18




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 Re: Carb questions for the carb illiterate in reply to farmerwannabe, 10-20-2005 05:32:15  
think of water as electricity...which is gonna put more water on yer garden...1/2'' hose or a 2'' hose??? BOTH need to be 00 to get full flow.

as far as your carb goes...it could be as simple as a float adjustment or bad needle and seat or a heavy float.

if you've got gas dripping out of engine itself check oil for contamiation...not only can gas in your oil ruin engine...if theres enuff it could ignite inside crankcase which is a very bad thing for you and anyone close by.

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