|
George, just to add a lil to Olds good advice, heres a few more thoughts: Most alternators are for 12 volt Negative ground, so you have to use, wire n configure the battery and coil (if it has one) accordingly, i.e. NEGATIVE grounded 12 volt battery. Heres the wire and diode and resistor sizes that Old mentioned which I recommend. NOTE this if for a GM 10 SI (3 wire) internally regulated Alternator ONLY. If you have a one wire or an externally regulated alternator, disregard this. This also assumes youre going to operate at 12 volts !!!!! !!!!! Are you????? ???? Run a 16 Gauge or so wire from the Ignition switches IGN terminal (what feeds the coil when ON) with a series 10 ohm 5 watt resistor and a 5 amp or so 50 PIV minimum Volt Diode (IT MUST be wired + anode end to switch, - cathode end to alternator) to the lil No. 1 terminal on the Alternators side. (Excitation circuit) NOTE these ratings I use are a bigger than actually required, but the higher rated units have bigger leads easier to wire up. NOTE Its possible to feed this excitation circuit direct off a 12 volt coils + input (same electrical point as at Ign switch if no ballast), I just prefer it as posted above, but either will work. Run a 16 Gauge wire from the Alternators lil side No. 2 terminal jumped up to the big main rear output post. (Sensing circuit) Run a 10 Gauge wire from the Alternators big output post up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of ammeter (if it has an ammeter). If theres only a 12 Gauge wire from the ammeters other Supply terminal to the battery or starter etc., I replace it with a 10 gauge. If it has a coil ignition, wire the + side from the switch and the - side to the distributor. You need EITHER a full 12 volt rated coil or if you use a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system you need to add an external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) Ballst Resisitr ahead of the coil after the Ignition switch output. John T Nordhoff in Indiana, retired electrical engineer
| 
