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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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WD Brakes

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DeLo

09-28-2005 09:46:45




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Does anyone hae any ideas on how to remove the lomer brake pins from an Allis WD? I have tried prying and even filled the housing with penetrating oil.




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JMS/MN

09-28-2005 20:40:51




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to DeLo, 09-28-2005 09:46:45  
Get a piece of 1/4 x 1 1/2 by 10. Drill a 3/4 inch hole near one end, weld it to the pin. Heat of welding loosens the pin, you can use the handle for leverage, or beat on it to rotate it- then the pin will come out. Drilling and tapping into the pin gives you only a small surface to pull on, plus it is very difficult to do. Grind off the weld and reuse the pin....use Neverseize on it.



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wdtom

09-28-2005 17:31:12




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to DeLo, 09-28-2005 09:46:45  
The pins are casehardened. If you aregoing to drill and tap them to pull them you need to grind off enough to get through the case, less than 1/16". Drill and tap straight if you can. Spend a lot of time doing it straight, and use a new tap that is sharp, cutting oil, and don't break the tap off. I used a fine thread, leaves more of the bolt or stud for strength. Drill and tap deep enough to get past the neck. There is little metal left in the neck after you get a 3/8 thread in there, it can pull off. It won't weaken the pin to where you can't use it. The pin is supported by a lot of housing and you can have quite a deep hole before it gets near the unsupported portion of the pin. After you get the pins out, if you don't have to drill and tap them, or if you get new pins, drill and tap them for future use. Who ever has to pull them will think you were pretty good to do that for them.

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Texas Denny

09-28-2005 10:26:25




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to DeLo, 09-28-2005 09:46:45  
There are several methods. Allis recommends drilling into the center of the pin and tapping a 5/16 to 3/8 bolt. With appropriate size washers, the screw will pull it out.

Some have welded a rod or a screw to the end of the pin and used it to pull the pin. The welding provided heat to the pin which helps loosen it.

I had good success by loosening the axel from the differential (with everything properly supported). The action of loosening and sliding the axel back about 1/4" loosened mine for me so I could remove it with a vise grips. You don's need to pull it out much to loosen it from the differential.

Good luck.

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DeLo

09-28-2005 19:09:04




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to Texas Denny, 09-28-2005 10:26:25  
How hard was it for you to loosen the axel? I tried doing that but mine wouldn"t budge.



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Texas Denny

09-29-2005 07:12:55




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to DeLo, 09-28-2005 19:09:04  
I had a 3/4" socket set with an 18" breaker bar. They were tight but they came off OK. I didn't need a cheater bar. I'm not sure you could get them with a 1/2" socket set. Harbor Freight has a 3/4" socket set for about $40 in every catalog they send me. You might try a penetrant/lubricant on the nuts for a while before trying to remove. Can't remember if I did that or not.



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DeLo

09-30-2005 18:12:48




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to Texas Denny, 09-29-2005 07:12:55  
I can get all of the bolts out of the axle, but the axle wont separate from the differential. I tried to pry it off but it wont move. i think that those pins are still holding them. Did you have any problems after removeing the bolts?



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Texas Denny

09-30-2005 20:24:16




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to DeLo, 09-30-2005 18:12:48  
No, I didn't. This joint is not gasketed. And the bolts have clearance. You can't get the axel out without removing the brake drum (which is next to impossible). But we aren't trying to remove the axel - just move it enough to loosen the pin. Do you get any movement at all?



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DeLo

10-01-2005 12:46:01




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 Re: WD Brakes in reply to Texas Denny, 09-30-2005 20:24:16  
The top of the axle will move just a hair but the bottom will not move at all. I tried to pry starting at the top and working down but the lower I got, hte tighter it got.



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