Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
:

170 diesel clutch

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
banjo

09-02-2005 18:34:07




Report to Moderator

I have a 70's ac 170 diesel that the foot clutch is stuck engauged. I crawled under it and can see the throwout bearing moving as the peddal is mashed. it will grind in to gear and the hand clutch works still. could it be the pressure plate has malfunctioned?




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Hurst

09-02-2005 20:54:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to banjo, 09-02-2005 18:34:07  
Sounds like it has sat for a while and the disk got stick to the pressure plate. Several ways to get it unstuck. I would try just driving it around in hight gear and working the pedal. If that doesn't work, then have to ask someone else what other ways there are, I am not too sure about all the ways, that is the only way that I remember, but know there are others. Also, are the gears grinding because you have to have the powerdirector in neutral to shift, so teh drap from teh powerdirector is causing you to grind gears?

Hurst

Hurst

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
banjo

09-02-2005 21:32:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to Hurst, 09-02-2005 20:54:16  
It only sets for a few days at a time. I use it all the time. I was useing it when it got stuck. I have to have the power director in nutral so i can change gears. It will not stop if i dont kick the power director out. I tried bumping it up to a tree but that didn"t work. I hope i dont have to break it apart couse i have a front loader on it. Thanks.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gatz

09-03-2005 07:50:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to banjo, 09-02-2005 21:32:23  
It's possible that one or more of the linings or pads have come loose and are dragging.
Another possibilty is that the clutch plate linings have become soaked with oil, expanded and there's not enough clearance for it to release.
(This happened to the D17SerIV that I'm restoring)

If it's dry, you can eliminate that.

Is the amount of pressure needed to push the pedal down about the same as before?

Any scraping noises ? Overheated from use?
Smell of burned linings?

This may require splitting just to find out.

Gatz

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
banjo

09-03-2005 11:13:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to Gatz, 09-03-2005 07:50:12  
Nothing smells out of the ordinary. It is possible they may be soaked with oil or diesel. filter leaked for a while where the starter is.

I stepped on the pedal it sort of grinded a little next thing i knew it was hung.

It has been a little temper mental for a while. sometimes it would grind into gear the next time just slip right in.

the clutch doesn't slip at all and it does not have any burnt smell if the pads were soaked.


Looks like i'm gonna have to tear into it. Uugggg.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hurst

09-03-2005 11:19:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to banjo, 09-03-2005 11:13:05  
I would definative break it down asap and not use it too much until then. You can get a clutch redone of that size (turning flywheel and pressure plate sureface, getting springs in pressure plate replaced and the whole thing rebuilt, and then remanufactured clutch disk) for no more than $400 dollars at a good clutch shop. 350 (what it costs to get a ford clutch of that size done) is a lot cheaper than a few thousand worth of gears, forks, colors, shafts, etc (anything else that can get torn up from grinding the gears). The split shouldn't take more than 5 hours to get it apart, and make sure you take your time. I would recommend taking it to a clutch shop instead of buying all new or rebuilt parts, it is cheaper and usually better quality. Good luck and think positive, after the split, chances are you won't have any more dry clutch problems for a while. Also, if there is oil in the torque tube, I would be replacing some seals too. Good luck.

Hurst

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
banjo

09-03-2005 20:55:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to Hurst, 09-03-2005 11:19:00  
Thanks, i just dont have any idea where a clutch place is here in souteast okla.

another problem is a place to break it apart. my ole shop is pretty small and no place to use a overhead hoist. all the big trees around here on on hill sides , so no flat place to work.

also getting ready to move to another house. not a far move just still moveing.Just dont seem to have time to do everything.

It might be a bit longer than 5 hours by the time i get this frontend loader out of the way.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hurst

09-04-2005 08:47:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to banjo, 09-03-2005 20:55:56  
For tools to split, you can get it apart without and overhead hoist. At our farm, we use an old A frame and chain hoist, but most people don't have a good A frame around anymore. The easiest thing I can think of is to put wood blocks under the torque tube (and have a jack lifting it up some so you should, if the tractor could flex much, have a little arch it in, that way the wood will have pressure on it when you pull it apart. Also, put wood wedges in the front on the axle so it doesnt tip. Now, use a good roling floor jack under the front part (make sure you put it on something that can hold quite a bit of weight, not sure if an oil pan on those are that strong). Then with the help of some friends, roll the front and the jack back. Keep an eye on the jack also, don't let it slip out from under you. I would also chalk the wheels in both directions in the rear before starting and in the front once pulled apart. About finding a clutch place, look up clutch and also try joint in the yellow pages. Here is a link to the results from the yellowpages.com in OK, but all these places seem to be in NE or E Ok. Hope you find a good place, it is definatively worth a little drive because it will save you. If you can't find anyplace, atleast let a machine shop resurface your flywheel, then trade all the other parts in for a good rebuilt produce (including the pressure plate, because the springs will need replacing). Hope you find a solution and keep posting if you've got any questions. Also, try the Unofficial Allis Chalmers board, there is a guy that has a shop in OK. I think his name on the forum is Okieboy, but not for sure, I bet if you post there and ask for someone in OK, he should be able to help you out. Good luck

Hurst

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
banjo

09-04-2005 13:26:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to Hurst, 09-04-2005 08:47:32  
Is it easier to roll the front back? We was thinking the back would roll better. I have never split one apart. We are building an A frame out of double wide trailer tongues. Will be about 9ft. tall and will fit in my shop.I Will use this to support one half of tractor. Floor is cement but kinda rough and wavy in places.Might need to lay some plywood down.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hurst

09-04-2005 14:26:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to banjo, 09-04-2005 13:26:50  
The front is definatively easier to move. The rear has too much mass to move by pushing. I have never split one for a clutch and moved the rear, always the front, anything from our d17D IV we used to have (I was about 12 when we sold it) to my Allis 7000, always roll the front. The A frame is a lot safer than a jack. Make sure you have a hoist that can handle around 1000 lbs (we used a 1/2 ton hoist on my 7000 with no problem). The A frame should be fine if the floor doesn't have cracks. If a wheel on a large tool chest will roll over it, then the wheels on the A frame you are building (You will need wheels on it) should be fine. We have an rough, but not cracked cemement floor that works just fine. I think the trailer toungs should be more than enough, ours is made of about 5 inch I beams all around, and it works like a wonder, just make sure you use a good rod and weld er up nice and strong. If you were near central Ky, you could bring it over when I get home from school for a while and use our stuff. Good luck, and feel free to e-mail me or repost with any questions. Another thing to not do it pull real hard when pulling it apart and pushing it hard when putting it back together. Do is slowly and only go a few inches at a time and then look for any connections that aren't loose. Then when putting it back, it is normal to have to push it and lack about an inch until it would be together and go no further, this just means that your splines and/or the input shaft isn't lined up with the clutch disk. When this happens, try turning the motor while someone wiggles the front and pushes. If it doesn't go together, make sure the level is correct also. I have had them twist a little when putting them back (wood in the front axle slipped I guess) and they don't like going back together like that either. Lots of little things involved in it. I bet that you could get it done in a day. I was able to split a 6610 ford for the second time in my life in about 4 hours pretty much by myself. Once the loader is off, then you should have about 3 or 4 hours left normally. Did the link help find a clutch place? If not, and you are going to have to ship it, I can give you a number for a guy in Lexington Ky that is by far one of the best around and very reasonable and won't give you a load of BS like some shops will. Let me know if you need any more help or anything else. Ohh, just about forgot, unhook atleast the ground on the battery before doing anything because you will have to mess with electrical wires.

Hurst

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
banjo

09-05-2005 04:35:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to Hurst, 09-04-2005 14:26:13  
Thanks Hurst,

Will post or e-mail if i have any questions. Will get to it in a day or too hopefully. started on the frame today. I won't be able to use wheels on the frame. shop too small. It will just be to support 1/2 of the tractor. will try and build a strong dolly to cradle and roll it apart.At least it sounds good. Jacks can be a little tricky. Dont need it falling off. I have used them on autos but only with transmission not half a tractor.

Link looked like all automotive. Also 150-200 miles away. Will try and find a place closer to home.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hurst

09-05-2005 07:13:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: 170 diesel clutch in reply to banjo, 09-05-2005 04:35:14  
You can make some bars that attatch to the frame rail with screw ends to raise and lower it to the height you need it. This would slide across the floor easier than metal tounges. Another thing is to put plywood under the places where the tounge contacts the ground so you don't mess up the congreed and it slides easier. Dolly may work too, never tried that. Good luck

Hurst



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy