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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum

wd brake pin removal, I need HELP!!!!!!

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06-11-2005 16:21:06

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Hello guys,

I am doing some work for a friend on his WD. We need to pull the axles and housings off to replace the seals on the shaft's. Sound's like and easy enough job right? Wrong.

The pin that goes through the bottom of the axle housing for the brake shoes to pivot on is froze in place BIG TIME. I tried heating it and letting it cool, I tried prying on it. I drilled it out in the center like the I&T manual tells you too but I did not have a slide hammer with me at his place so I tried to pull on it by threading a bolt in and pulling off of a socket over top of the pin while heating it to no avail. I am going to get a slide hammer this week and try it again next weekend with that. If that does not work what is the next thing to try?

Any idea's or experience would be great as I need all the help I can get on this one. I am not an experienced with Allis's so expertice is what I need.

Thanks in advance.

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Leon in Mn.

06-17-2005 20:50:38

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 Re: wd brake pin removal, I need HELP!!!!!! in reply to casered, 06-11-2005 16:21:06  
If all else fails, this is what an old AC mechanic told me years back when I had the very same problem on my WD45. When heat and everything else fails, (and lack of time)take a chunk of the pin out (about 2 inches)from underneath (through the bottom hole) with the cutting torch, then grab the end piece inside with a vise grips and twist and pull it out. That piece almost always comes out fairly easy. Next, pound IN the outside piece so it falls out of the hole. Of course, you will have to replace the pin. I used a 3/4 inch hitch pin shaft and fabricated it to work. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the new pin. Hope this helps.

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06-11-2005 17:04:53

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 Re: wd brake pin removal, I need HELP!!!!!! in reply to casered, 06-11-2005 16:21:06  
I've never been impressed with the slide hammer and drilling bit- yes, it can work, but it is hard to work in the little space available, and drilling and tapping gives you a small bolt to whang on. I take a piece of flat iron -about 1/4 by 2 by 10, drill a 3/4 inch hole near one end, and weld it to the pin. Heat of welding may loosen the pin, penetrating fluid also helps. Also hold a candle to the area and let the wax melt into the pin. Good idea to try that before you weld on the flat iron, after putting the torch to the pin. With the flat iron you have a handle you can use to rotate the pin. Beat on it if necessary. If it rotates, it will come out. Grind off the weld and reuse the pin, with Never-Seize.

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06-11-2005 19:08:24

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 Re: wd brake pin removal, I need HELP!!!!!! in reply to JMS/MN, 06-11-2005 17:04:53  
You seem to bemt lifeline here of late. Thanks for the help on this and on the engine price. One thought on the flat bar idea. Will that interfere with the studs from the axle housing by putting that bar on the pin? Or do you thread the studs out before you weld the flat on? I had a lot of heat on it today. The entire pin was glowing cherry red at on time but we just couldn't get it. We ended the day by heating the pin red hot and torqueing down on the bolt idea and seeing if when it cools it breaks it free.

Again thanks for the idea, and when I get back to his place next weekend I will let you know what worked.

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06-12-2005 11:32:26

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 Re: wd brake pin removal, I need HELP!!!!!! in reply to casered, 06-11-2005 19:08:24  
No interference with the studs- but a 1 1/2 inch wide piece works well- The hole would be half the width of the flat iron, so still plenty of meat left to apply torque to. Don't need to rotate the pin 360 degrees- just back and forth and it should come out. With the 'handle' hanging straight down you have a little room to whang it. I firmly believe in the wax idea. Used it often on head or manifold bolts and others. On broken bolts in cast I heat the cast, staying away from direct contact with the bolt. Cast expands some and can take more heat than the thin bolt. Apply the wax as it cools, too hot it just burns off. Want it to melt into the threads. If you use a blessed candle, it makes up for some of the cursing you'll do trying to get the pin out. (grin) Turn after cooling some or several hours later. On the brake pin- remember that the pin deadends into an interior casting, so dump some penetrating oil in there too- might need a curved tube to get it near the pin.

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