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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Allis Chalmers B engine problems

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Brandon P. Webe

05-25-2005 18:48:00




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Hi all, I recently acquired an Allis Chalmers B from a friend who is a fruit farmer. My first question is, where do I find the serial number to narrow down what year it is? Second, he had used it up until two years ago. Since then, it has sat outside. It had a can over the muffler, but the muffler fit inside the exhaust manifold, not over a pipe nipple coming out of the manifold (I don't believe this is a proper setup, but hey, what do I know). The engine appears to be seized/rusted up. It will not crank over with the starter, it just goes "thud" as the starter gear slams into the flywheel. I've even tried to drag it in gear, with no luck. The spark plugs have slight amounts of visible surface rust on them, leading me to believe that water entered the engine and rusted it up. I do not have a manual crank for it. I have let it sit for about 3 weeks with PB Blaster sprayed into the spark plug holes. No luck yet. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it freed up? Lastly, where can a guy find the specifications, fluid capacities, etc. for such a tractor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Brandon P. Weber

05-26-2005 12:48:45




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-25-2005 18:48:00  
Thanks all for the suggestions and information. Keep it coming. I have a feeling I'm going to need all of it I can get. I am going to have a very steep learning curve with this tractor.



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Brandon P. Weber

05-26-2005 15:06:18




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-26-2005 12:48:45  
Well, I managed to scrape the goo off of the transmission housing and located the serial number. Now I'm really confused. The tractor is definitely a "B", based upon the front end, steering gear, and wheel base information which I located in another topic in the discussion forum. The serial number however, is C35873. I understand that the transmission housing is the same on both the "B" and "C" models, but, how do I date this thing out. According to the serial numbers page, if it's a "C", its one year, if it's a "B", it's another. Any words of wisdom?

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payne

05-27-2005 07:01:12




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-26-2005 15:06:18  
To narrow down some confusing questions of what your tractor really is look at the torque tube that connects the engine to the transmission. If the tube has two small bolt holes underneath where the steering box is than it is a C torque tube if not it is a B. Also the front ends and steering box could have been changed they all fit the same bolt holes. Check your engine number. If it is a CE it is a engine that was used on the B and C if it has a BE number it was only used on the B. Look at your axle housings if they are around 14 inches they came off a B if they are around 22 inches they came off of a C. Either way the tractor will run great with the mixed parts. If you want to make it original though your best bet would be to find a parts tractor for a C or B and go from there. As for freeing up the engine I always take mine apart and beat the pistons out with a 1x2 and a hammer that way you can clean and hone the cylinders. All the parts on this site for B and C engines are the same the only differance in the engines is their bore.

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mikeyinmo

05-26-2005 16:13:10




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-26-2005 15:06:18  
Brandon, if the trans case serial # says its a C treat it as a C. Most parts are interchangable anyway. It sounds like you have a C that got re-engined and/or re-fronted with a B to get it back in the field working back in the day, of course some yahoo just may not have been up to restoring an old tractor. Your tractor will still turn out good work and/or hours of puttering around satisfaction either way. Enjoy your slightly confused C, I enjoy my old B - although it does cause some frustration from time to time.

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Farmer in the Dells (WI)

05-26-2005 08:07:52




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-25-2005 18:48:00  
Serial number is stamped on a flat surface directly above the gear pattern on the transmission. It should start with a "B" followed by the number. Check the serial number section at the left to find out what year you have. Keep reading here and don't be afraid to ask questions. Check around the archives for plenty of previous discussion on this tractor. After you free it up, a complete fluid change would be a good start and pay attention to what those fluids look like. They will tell you a story about the condition of your tractor. Start with the fuel system. If you take the top cover off to get at the valve cover, two more bolts will get the gas tank off. Check the archives for some suggestions on cleaning the inside of the tank. Look at your plugs the way they come out. They tell you how each cylinder is doing. More important is do they all look the same. Do a compression test as well. I agree that bump starting a stuck tractor could get you in more trouble. You would tend to break a weaker part than freeing up the motor. Good luck and keep us posted. Post pictures as well.

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topsarg

05-26-2005 04:51:27




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-25-2005 18:48:00  
I have been told to soak the stuck pistons, with a combination of 2/3 charcoal lighter fluid, and 1/3 tranny fluid. Never tried it but sounds like it might work, give it a try. Might also hang a bucket of rocks or sand on the hand crank while it soaks, to put some pressure on crank..



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old

05-25-2005 19:06:25




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to Brandon P. Weber, 05-25-2005 18:48:00  
Fill the cylinders, and I do mean fill them with tranny fluid. Let that sit a week. Then top that off with turpentine, not paint thinner but turpentine. Let that sit a week and the give it a go with the starter. If it doesn't turn over after that its time to take it apart. So far that has never faild me.



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steve(ill)

05-25-2005 19:42:23




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 Re: Allis Chalmers B engine problems in reply to old, 05-25-2005 19:06:25  
dont pull start, you may bend a rod. best to lift one rear wheel a couple inches off the ground and block. couple times a day try to rock the tire back and forth, in high gear. everybody has their own MIX for the cylinders. PB blaster is also a good choice, but you need several spoon fulls in each cylinder. also taking out the starter and pry one the flywheel is o.k., dont break a tooth. take off the valve cover and tap each valve rocer slightly. see that each valve "bounces" and they are not stuck. if so, spray the stem and tap a few more times. sticking valves and water in the center two cylinders is a common problem setting out side..----- --- the transmission, pto, and bevel gear all use the same oil cavity. if you have a hydraulic pump/valve at theright rear corner of the PTO cover, then it is part of the oil system also. there are 3 half inch pipe pluges under the three cavities. drain all three. refill thru the transmission 1 inch pipe plug by your left foot. takes about 8 quarts of universal hydraulic fluid from farm store or Wal Mart.---- motor takes 4 quarts of oil. i prefer 10w30. if it is old and beat, striaght 30 wt might be better. they only got about 10 psi of oil pressure. dont expect much. more questions [email protected]

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