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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Rod and Main bearing shims

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Gov'nr

05-03-2005 13:53:40




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I tore down the motor on my WC, and when I got to the bearing caps, found that the main cap in the middle had two shims on one side. As careful as I was I didn't realize this until it fell to the floor. Now I don't know which side the shim was on. The local shop suggests that I have the crank line bored and the piston rods resized so I don't have to worry about shims. THey let me know that this was going to be alittle more than I expected, when I took my crank in. Im a little familiar with plasti-guaging, and assume I can figure the shim problem out with out going thru everything else. Need suggestions, PLEASE.

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Gov'nr

05-03-2005 18:56:20




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 Re: Rod and Main bearing shims in reply to Gov'nr, 05-03-2005 13:53:40  
The crank is being turned. The shop doing the work is pretty reputable, according to locals. They tell me at the shop that they will have the "correct" bearing sizes for me when they are done. I've never worked with shims before, and just rally qorried about screwing up the bearings right off the get go.



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Andrew Z

05-04-2005 06:22:53




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 Re: Rod and Main bearing shims in reply to Gov'nr, 05-03-2005 18:56:20  
When I rebuilt my B I bought a roll of shim stock and cut my own. Andrew



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Texas Denny

05-03-2005 18:52:11




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 Re: Rod and Main bearing shims in reply to Gov'nr, 05-03-2005 13:53:40  
As already said, balance the shims as much as possible. You don't need to "the crank line bored and the piston rods resized" unless the bearing surfaces are poor or your bearings are realy bad. Usually, You can get the correct clearance and still require shims. If you get the correct clearance with or without shims, you are done.



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wdtom

05-03-2005 17:44:03




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 Re: Rod and Main bearing shims in reply to Gov'nr, 05-03-2005 13:53:40  
Keep in mind that the shims should be even from side to side. You have to have some ( .001 to .002") crush, check though, I could have forgotten. Crush is having the bearing shells measure out larger than the bearing they go in so when the bearing is tightened the shells will be a "press fit". If you reduce the shim thickness you also need to reduce the bearing shells a like amount to maintain the proper "crush". Use a file with care to file evenly. Check often with plasti gage, you can't file it back on if you go too far. I put the bearing together with no shims, shells seated with no oil (never any oil) behind them, tighten finger tight, and measure shim space, install proper shims for crush and plastigage. This gets you a base for reducing shims and filing bearing shells. As I said, go slow, it takes time and you can't go back. Check rotation after each bearing just to be sure. Do mains, then rods. It will get harder to turn as each rod is done as you are fighting the drag of the rings, but you should still be able to turn and it should get harder in even increments after each rod.

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Ed H.

05-03-2005 17:07:25




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 Re: Rod and Main bearing shims in reply to Gov'nr, 05-03-2005 13:53:40  
I would think the shims should be equally split....you are right , you will have to use plasti-gauge to get you clearnces right....by the way, what are you having done to the crank?.. if you are having the crank polished or turned, you will have "fit" each rod and main journal with the correct size bearings



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