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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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D17 series III generator problem

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Chas

04-29-2005 21:28:23




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My D17 has a kaput 12 volt generator. The armature commutator has thrown the solder out. also the shaft wore clean thru the bearings and into the casing. one brush holder is completely missing. I am not against repaing the generator if its salvageable. any suggestions?
If I convert to an alternator can someone please provide info as to brand, model, year?




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steve(ill)

04-30-2005 18:55:06




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 Re: D17 series III generator problem in reply to Chas, 04-29-2005 21:28:23  
you can go to Auto Zone (parts store) and get a generator for a 59' chevy pickup truck if you want that.--- if you wnat cheap and reliable, change to an alternator. use the models that have an internal voltage regulator. if you got to Auto Parts store, tell them you want a DELCO 10SI off a 75 chevy pickup. thats probably $40. if you want something a little smaller profile, get something off a 95-2000 GM car or truck (chevy, olds, pontiac). you can also use a Mitsuibishi or Honda type alternator. with these alternators you run one big wire #10 to your amp meter, and a second small wire as a signal to turn the alternator on. the small wire must be powered from the ignition switch or an on-off switch. hardest thing is mounting it and getting the belt aligned. you will need to switch the battery terminals so you have negative ground, a positive to the starter and alternator.

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chas

05-01-2005 06:44:00




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 Re: D17 series III generator problem in reply to steve(ill), 04-30-2005 18:55:06  
Steve

Great advice! Do i need a diode in the circuit somewhere if I use an alternator. Also will my pulley fit the alternator or will I need new pully?

thanks for your input



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steve(ill)

05-01-2005 19:31:21




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 Re: D17 series III generator problem in reply to chas, 05-01-2005 06:44:00  
MOST pulleys will fit the alternator and generator, if built by DELCO. you dont need a diod. i use a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor in the #1 spade terminal from the key switch. it drops the voltage slightly to the "signal" and makes the alternator charge better or "kick in" at lower rpm. some use an "idiot light" in the circuit to do this. On the newer DELCO is use a larger resistor, i think it was a 100 ohm. On the Mitsuibishi you dont add a resistor. All alternaotrs have the 10 guage main wire and a smaller 18 guage "signal" to turn them on with the key.--- tell me what you got and i can give you a wiriring diagram-- [email protected]

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Chas

05-01-2005 19:59:28




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 Re: D17 series III generator problem in reply to steve(ill), 05-01-2005 19:31:21  
Steve

I'll let you know what altenator I end up with and get a diagram from you.

Thanks



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Chuck in Tejas

05-01-2005 09:04:50




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 Re: D17 series III generator problem in reply to chas, 05-01-2005 06:44:00  
the first generation GM alternators with built in regulators are pretty easy to wire up...#10 wire to ammeter and if i remember right [check this out] theres 2 1/4'' spade lugs on alt...i believe the ''I'' terminal goes to one side of a idiot light...run other side of light to ignition side of switch...the light kicks in the charging at lower rpms...my ford 2000 starts charging just a hair above idle.
hope this helps

ps:change to negative ground...starter will still work the same

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