Allis 'B' unsticking motor advice needed

To date, I've pulled the plugs and squirted marvel mystery oil in the cylinders. I pulled the starter to make sure it wasn't hanging up I removed the valve cover and everything is nice and shiny in there and the valves all work smoothly.

What is my next move? I don't want to tow her and trying to release the clutch to break it free for fear of damaging the engine (unless advised to do so) Or do I take the head off to see what's happening in there, or do I take the pan route to see if I can work it free from that direction?

I'm the second owner of this gem and the original owner said that he'd never had the head off... and that the tractor only has several hundred hours on it from day one, it ran strong, started easily and used no oil last year.

The oil shows no sign of water in it, however, the part of the barn that the tractor was parked in gets rain blown in at times and I'm suspecting that rain had leaked past the muffler /manifold union and that's the culprit. Since I'm in Fla, there wasn't any freeze danger to cause damage and the radiator is full of water.

Any advice on which direction to turn will certainly be appreciated!

Thanks.... Tim.

Try pushing (and holding) the clutch in while the tractor is in gear and see if the tractor will roll. Use another tractor or truck to pull the B from the drawbar. If the tractor doesn't want to roll then the clutch is stuck to the flywheel and needs to be freed up. You can free up the clutch by towing the B with the clutch depressed and the tranny in gear. Sometimes you can rock the rear tires back and forth while someone is sitting on the tractor--again with the clutch depressed and the tranny in gear. A good hot battery and good electric started can also be used to break the bond between clutch and flywheel.

You broke the hand crank? Wow. I sure wouldn't tow it or otherwise unduly force things. If it were mine, I'd remove the head and see what the situation might be in the cylinders. You are not likely to learn much by dropping the pan first. I assume you have tried rotating it with all plugs removed so as to eliminate the possibility of a hydraulic lock problem.

Rod

Several years ago, I had a JD 430 and the engine stuck. I squirted penetrating oil in the cylinders, let them soak for a week and still stuck tight as a wedge. I tried the bar on the flywheel trick...useless. I tried bumping the starter in adddition to bar pressure....no go. I then towed and popped the clutch.....the tires skidded.

Finally, out came the wrenches and off came the head. Being a 2 cylinder, helped, hehe! Anyway, there was the slightest movement of the rear piston, so the front was the culprit. I soaked it again, no help. I was stumped. I had a big talk with a pal of mine and we decided to take a chunk of 4x4, sit it on the piston and apply some judicious taps. Defeat. Finally my ol' buddy says, you might as well whack the hell out of it because if it's stuck that tight, you're going either bust the piston or free it..... but it has got to come loose one way....or another, sure as hell no good the way it is. John Henry never struck a railroad spike any harder than we did that piston using an 8 lbs. sledge and a piece of 4x4. BUT, it finally broke free and none the worse for wear. WE socked a cylinder hone in and polished it a bit, oiled the cylinders and let the starting motor whirl the pistons and everything looked good. The head went back on and that tractor is still running a good ten years later. Now before the whole crowd jumps up to declare how lucky we were, save your breath. I'm aware of that. But, the bottom line is; when all else fails a bigger hammer sometimes DOES work!